EcoRenovator  

Go Back   EcoRenovator > Improvements > Geothermal & Heat Pumps
Advanced Search
 


Blog 60+ Home Energy Saving Tips Recent Posts Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-30-16, 07:58 PM   #51
b420ady
Helper EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Romania
Posts: 47
Thanks: 19
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Even thou I did not post to much lately I m all over the project
I could not find a romanian company that sells a coaxial heat exchanger but right now I ve got in contact with 5 different romanian companies that are manufacturing and or selling blazed plates heat exchangers and I ve got with all of them at the point were they have to know the water temperature in and out, the refrigerant temperature in and out, pressure drop, heat exchanger KW power.
Please help me give them some good data back.
I know blazed plates HX are far from ideal but after I ve seen so many commercial units that are using them and also the fact that I can actually afford to buy one made me plan on going on this path even thou I ll have to do extra cleaning on it from time to time I think that if it will get me through this winter and also leave me with the learning experience it will mean that the money invested were returned at least 2 times for me and at the end I will still have a dirty HX to play with maybe for a water to water conversion were I ll use the coaxial HX for the well water and the blazed plates HX for house heating + domestic water boiler.
You said that I should install first the heat pump in its actual setup just to see how it works, but here the temperature dropped as an Arctic wind is over this area and the unit is out of its range already and the winter did not began yet apart from a short 4 cm thick snow that was just an welcoming. So I don t see much point in paying close to 100 USD to have it installed and filled by a technician just to see if it works and then open it again to modify it for the water source. I guess that in case the unit has a fault the technician can fix it for something like 100 usd or less hopefully.
Please tell me your impression on that.
.

b420ady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-16, 10:50 PM   #52
b420ady
Helper EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Romania
Posts: 47
Thanks: 19
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Please tell me more about these OSAKA mini-split units which supposedly work for heating at -20 Celsius outdoor temperatures. For some reason I ve found them on google just on Romanian and Bulgarian stores , I guess they are a rebrand, but of what brand, I really want to see more specs about these units because they sound to good to be true at these prices and physical size of the outdoor unit.

Osaka Nordic OHW24LT 24000 BTU/h PRICE: 770 USD ! ! ! !
==================================================
Aparat de aer conditionat Osaka Inverter Nordic OHW24LT 24000btu

Aparat de Aer conditionat Osaka Nordic OHW24LT 24000 BTU inverter



OSAKA inverter 24000 BTU OHW24IG5 PRICE" 550 USD ! ! ! !
==================================================
Aer Conditionat OSAKA inverter 24000 BTU OHW24IG5 casa restaurant cafenea club hotel destinat Rezidential
b420ady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-16, 02:40 AM   #53
b420ady
Helper EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Romania
Posts: 47
Thanks: 19
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Климатици от Eco-Clima ® - Най-добрите цени! | Климатици , apparently they are made in china and they cost more on their main website in Bulgary than in the most romanian webstores. What do you think ?
b420ady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-16, 03:45 PM   #54
b420ady
Helper EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Romania
Posts: 47
Thanks: 19
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Not much action lately as I was away but look at what I have found for sale locally:
There is a liquidation sale for almost 50 OUTDOOR UNITS ONLY all of them Samsung and they are all brand new the prices are between 200 and 400 Euros per unit ! ! ! !
They do not have the inside unit !
I ve checked the price for them in stores and they are much greater than that.
To be honest my eyes are bleeding on the keyboard looking at them as I cannot afford them now but I see them as an extremely great business opportunity.
So if anyone here is interested in some components inside those babies or whole units shipped somehow I will gladly help you get them just to get a slice of the cake. I don t know how fast the whole lot will be sold and I really wonder how I could buy them all almost any main component inside any of those units costs more then the price for the whole unit ...

anyway...

The last 2 photos are of a second hand unit that costs about 125 USD , the owner said that he has just one of the two indoor units and that the specs you see on the last photo is posted on EACH of the 2 outdoor units included in the same case .... I m not entirely sure but it might be a 2 X 32000 BTU unit which would be great for the compressor and parts inside....I mean I can warm up 2 other houses if I convert them to geothermal

I really whish in Romania it was possible to get funds for projects as you can do in USA on kickstarter website or how much easier is there to find someone to actually help you get your visions realized.

PS:
I also got and offer for this Osaka Nordic Inverter OHW12LT 12000 BTU which has a heater around the compressor and they say it works for -20 C but they don t give any more details about the COP there .... the company is based in Bulgary and its intended for Bulgary and Russian market were is COLD , the price for it including install 400 USD and 2 years warranty.

http://www.climatico.ro/aer-conditio...12000-btu.html

Apparently in Bulgary most of the population its warming up on electricity and the brand OSAKA is part of a more known manufacturer which owns some other smaller brands of heat pumps and older models of OSAKA are made with DAIKIN compressors and the company that made me the offer said that this Osaka is more quiet and powerful for heating than a Gree Lomo (which is made for -15 C)at the same price at his store. Anyway I could not find any COP data at those temperatures for none of them.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image_0 (4).jpg
Views:	316
Size:	180.8 KB
ID:	7446   Click image for larger version

Name:	image_1 (2).jpg
Views:	314
Size:	162.6 KB
ID:	7447   Click image for larger version

Name:	image_2 (2).jpg
Views:	318
Size:	216.8 KB
ID:	7448   Click image for larger version

Name:	image_3 (2).jpg
Views:	323
Size:	187.6 KB
ID:	7449   Click image for larger version

Name:	image_4.jpg
Views:	314
Size:	60.0 KB
ID:	7450  

Click image for larger version

Name:	tadiran 32000 BTU.jpg
Views:	303
Size:	33.1 KB
ID:	7451   Click image for larger version

Name:	tadiran 32000 BTU specs.jpg
Views:	319
Size:	32.8 KB
ID:	7452  

Last edited by b420ady; 12-08-16 at 04:28 PM..
b420ady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-16, 12:22 PM   #55
ledbalon
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: dayton tn
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

30 Plate Water to Water Heat Exchanger 3x8 | eBay think more like this.. a flat plate exchanger made to soldier right into an out of your unit. I agree with some of the other comments about not putting the water back into your well. Suggest a dry well where you can drop the water back into your yard that is atleast 6 feet or more in depth... Direct (x) exchange to the ground is another option ... in some ways easier.. You can do this with four small bore holes that go perhaps 50 feet in depth.. Direct x you will in essence be adding tubing in and then out of each bore hole and they become an extended fin to exchange heat with the ground. So you will be using the pump in the compressor and no other pumps.. the water geo exchange you will need to likely have a variable speed pump so you can optimize your unit.
ledbalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-16, 12:40 PM   #56
ledbalon
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: dayton tn
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

if you are using this primarily for cooling.. here is another thought.. Have done this myself.. connect a standing water tank (water heater) to a heat exchanger. have a small circulation pump to pump water to and from the tank use a thermal switch to turn the pump on only when energized by the ac. It is clean efficient. if your water tank is of sufficient size your ac will give you almost 100% water heating and drop your cost of running the ac by over 30%
ledbalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-16, 12:47 PM   #57
jeff5may
Supreme EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: elizabethtown, ky, USA
Posts: 2,428
Thanks: 431
Thanked 619 Times in 517 Posts
Send a message via Yahoo to jeff5may
Default

What? an air conditioner water heater? Even more preposterous than a dehumidifier water heater! You'll crack the atmosphere or sumthin!
jeff5may is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-16, 02:06 PM   #58
ledbalon
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: dayton tn
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

JEFF basically this is just a de super heater ... been around for a very long time.. if you look at the heat pump water heaters that are on the market this is pretty much what it is
ledbalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-16, 03:15 PM   #59
b420ady
Helper EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Romania
Posts: 47
Thanks: 19
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Today I ve discovered some people that were killing with an angle cutter a big industrial refrigeration unit, when I ve got there the compressor was put on a side , half of it was frosted and I could hear the freon escaping out of the cutted pipes , I ve took a look at the rest of the unit but they already destroyed the air heat exchangers , and the main body was huge even thou it did not had any other part inside that I could recover, so I ve brought from them the compressor alone with the pipes cut 1 cm outside the compressor.

Another thing I ve realized when I was already home with it is if I move it from a side to another I can hear something moving in it and like hiting the capsule ... is this normal ?

What I ve managed to read from its rusted label is something like:

L'Unite Hermetique Compressor Lic. Tecumse Made in France

MODEL : TAH-5524E R22

330V 60Hz.. 4A .. 24A
440V ..... .. . 3.5A 25A


SPECS from internet:

Air Conditioning / R-22 / Compressors:
TAH5524E

Fluid R-22
Range TAH
Cold Air conditioning
Type Compressors
Label (s)

Refrigeration Production (Watts)
-23.3 C 5716 Watts
-10 C 2441 Watts
0 C 4139 Watts
+ 10 C 6409 Watts
CECOMAF
-25 C 4780 Watts


Can someone please tell me more about what I have got because I could not find more data about it on google and I m really anxious to know more about it.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20161219_215049.jpg
Views:	304
Size:	359.5 KB
ID:	7481   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161219_215054.jpg
Views:	308
Size:	410.1 KB
ID:	7482   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161219_215043.jpg
Views:	633
Size:	466.6 KB
ID:	7483   Click image for larger version

Name:	20161219_215038.jpg
Views:	817
Size:	490.8 KB
ID:	7484  
b420ady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-16, 03:41 PM   #60
b420ady
Helper EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Romania
Posts: 47
Thanks: 19
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I ve found some more data about my L'Unite Hermetique Compressor TAH-5524E here:
http://documentatii-tehnice.ro/webco...76598611DE.pdf
press Ctrl + F and search for TAH 5524 , you will find it at page 10 in the second table

So what do you think about it, if it works how big I ll need the water heat exchangers ?

Here are the specs:
TAH 5524 E

Watt. To=(C)
-10C 2441 Watts
0C 3219 Watts
7,2C 5716 Watts
10C 6409 Watts

Hub space: 43,5 cm
Exp. (1): C
H mm : 354
Dim. Mounting plate: 191x191 Mm
Connections Suction: 5/8"
Connections Pressure out: 3/8"
Weight: 31 KG
Max : 6,3 A at 400V-3-50Hz / 440V-3-60Hz
Tc = 55 C = condensation temperature.
Suction gas superheat = 11K
Liquid undercooling = 8.5K.
Standard scope of delivery: AJ, FH, TAJ, TFH, TAG solder connections.
1) expansion: C = capillary tube, V = thermostatic expansion valve

PS:
-How do I test it to see if it works or atleast if the windings are ok ? I have the grid at 220 V single phase and a cheap multimeter
-I have to convert it to work at 220 V single phase , I ve start to search for tutorials but please help me here to chose the right parts

b420ady is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Ad Management by RedTyger
Inactive Reminders By Icora Web Design