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Old 09-29-13, 08:38 PM   #141
Mikesolar
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Doax, google "Alberta Custom Tee". It is a much less expensive manifold that you can customize for 2-24 loops, 1" header and 1/2" outputs (we call them spigots). Add a mini ball valve to each spigot and you have a less expensive balancing manifold.

I really would suggest going with 1/2" barrier tubing. There are more fittings available in more places. Also, with 3/8" you will want to limit yourself to 200' lengths MAX. Don't worry about making a 4" bend. It can be 6-8" then come in to make 4" runs.

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Old 09-30-13, 09:23 AM   #142
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would be limited to 200' max if I were using a single loop, but since I will be running parallel loops that will drop the pressure head substantially.

At least for this room, the 3/8" tubing allows me to get 1/4" of foam board under the tubing to stop some thermal bridging. If I go up to 1/2", there won't be enough room to get any insulation under there. However, I will be putting fiberglass in the joist cavity under the floor.
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Old 09-30-13, 09:29 AM   #143
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yes, 200' is a single loop length. any number in parallel only increases the flow rate needed, not the head loss so you are good.

i still think that the 1/2" tubing and no 1/4" foam is better since you will be insulating between the joists anyway. The wood may be just as good an insulator as the foam, given the thickness.
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Old 10-01-13, 11:23 AM   #144
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Here are some updated pics. The drywall lift is really a life saver. There is no way I could have done this alone without it. With it, its a breeze.




I can't wait to get some nice LEDs in there!

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Old 10-01-13, 12:20 PM   #145
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I came across this today...

https://www.midwestrenew.org/downloa...egenthaler.pdf

It's a Siegenthaler presentation regarding hydronic heating and it addresses solar hydronic, too.

Also this...

http://www.hydronicpros.com/_dynamo/...d.php?docid=12

Probably a little late in the game, but it's something to think about.

BTW, did you ever do any kind of heat loss analysis on your remodel?

-AC
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Old 10-01-13, 01:01 PM   #146
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Very interesting pdfs. Thank you for sharing.

I've always wondered... but this quote was some awesome info. He is talking about wall radiators.

Quote:
Adding low wattage fans to a low water content panel can boost heat output 50% during normal comfort mode, and over 200% during recovery from setback conditions
Another interesting thing was his picture of the aluminum heat spreaders says to only staple one side of the heat spreader, not both. This is to allow for expansion with the heat cycling.

I've also never heard of the Xylem (B&G) ECOCIRC pump. Its similar to the Grundfos Alpha and Wilo ECORFC, with variable speed and pressure differential features. Its always nice to have another option.

I do not have a heat loss analysis on the renovated wall.
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Old 10-16-13, 11:02 AM   #147
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The work has been progressing on the office. It has been taped and mudded and sanded... fun stuff. I still have to frame out the little in wall entertainment cabinet and put drywall over that. Above that I also have to blend the drywall into some plaster which should be interesting.

Anyway, here are some pics:





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Old 10-16-13, 12:49 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
The work has been progressing on the office...
Nice progress!

I really like the flared window openings.

I did that on some of my skylights (once I learned that it could be done).

It really lets in a lot more light, at no extra heat-loss penalty... good thinking.

My back room remodel is progressing, I'm in the wiring stage now...

It is so curious... in 1892, there was no concept of insulation or infiltration. So some of the structural decisions that were made just take my breath away.

I have learned so much from the discussions and reported and photographed works of the regulars here. I just don't know how I ever got by before.

I have a friend who is just now doing a total tear-out and remodel of his house. I have told him all about the approaches and techniques we are using here at ER... Sadly, he has decided to go with minimal insulation & sealing and with an 80% gas furnace, because "it is cheaper". I guess it's the "...lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink" kind of thing.

You're doing it right, keep up the good work.

Best,

-AC
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Old 10-16-13, 06:24 PM   #149
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I've always wondered, how do you remove the window bladders without letting all the gas out of the panes?
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Old 10-17-13, 07:33 AM   #150
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The instructions say to crimp the capillary tube twice, then cut it and put some sealant over the tip. Then you tuck it under the rubber seal around the window. I really need to do that... haha.

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