wood indoor storm windows

warmwxrules · 11-19-11, 11:57 AM

I'm building these out of cheap pine boards. I figure I can do 2 windows (42x42) for $4 in wood, maybe $2 in plastic/tape/seal, few cents in screws... So maybe $4 a window at most...

I'm just using plastic from these kits. I know its a little thin, but it has worked for me. I see Menards sells thick vinyl rolls (4 mil/8 mil), but I didn't think I needed anything that thick. I'll put some together in the next day and post back how they work. Suppose to be cold this coming week.

Still not sure how to connect them to the wall. Maybe put some anchors in and screw them down? I used Kreg jig to build the frame. It makes connecting them so easy.

S-F · 11-19-11, 12:12 PM

The people I know who build these just keep them in with a friction fit. Put some qlon all around the outer edge. Kerf it with a table saw to accept the qlon. You can alternatively use the foam strips that just stick on. It just has to be air tight. They also put a support brace across the middle.

I look forward to more detailed pictures. I need to do this to my windows in a bad way as they blow.

warmwxrules · 11-19-11, 12:57 PM

I hate working with that 2 sided tape/plastic (argh)...not perfect, but I got it put together and hung. Its up there really tight (its tight up against the trim), I'll see how much condensation builds up when the temps drop to around 20F this next week.

S-F-

These are Marvin windows from the early 90's (wood interior/al exterior) and I get a ton of condensation. I know not all of this is the window (all the heavy breathers/showers/etc), but I run the vent in the bathroom constantly and the heat is set at 65-67F... It mainly is confined to the end bedrooms (coldest bedrooms that face west/north).

Not a thing of beauty, but if it saves me money and is reusable (key here), then I'll go with it. I'm sick of ripping off perfectly good plastic window kits every spring (that is what I had been doing for years). This way I can store them in the basement for next winter...

S-F · 11-19-11, 01:22 PM

How do you have them secured and how did you make it air tight?

Looks pretty good.

warmwxrules · 11-19-11, 03:28 PM

They aren't secured at all right now. Its just so tight against the window trim that they are wedged in there. Not sure if the sealing i used is going to be thick enough to make a seal against the wall. I have a couple rolls of comfort seal.

The test comes when I see how much condensation (moisture) is getting inside the window. I finished a second one. Still have 3 more i want to get done this weekend.

I think one thing I'll think about in the future is thicker plastic. This .6 mil is very thin. Maybe I will get a big roll of extra clear vinyl (4 mil). Could probably use greenhouse plastic (I'm building a high tunnel greenhouse).

Daox · 11-20-11, 07:53 AM

Greenhouse plastic is much thicker, but you also can't really see through it. Are you worried about puncturing it?

For my windows, I followed Guy Marsden's design. IMO it looks great and is easy to install and remove.

Building interior window insulation panels

Here is my thread on them. I'm still not done though!

I do have tons of extra open cell foam though if you're interested.

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/conser...m-windows.html

warmwxrules · 11-20-11, 08:44 AM

Daox-

That is where the idea came from. I just bought 1x8x10 boards and ripped them into 1.5" strips (this may be too wide). Then used the miter saw to cut them to length. I'm just looking for a plastic that will last a few years. The problem with doing it this way is the huge size of everything. They are ginormous.

I built exterior ones earlier this fall that fit right into where the removable screen windows go. The only problem with those was securing them solidly and I wasn't sure how well the tape would hold up when the temp hits -20F.

11-22-11, 06:37 AM

You did a nice job on those inside storms, I would only suggest you put glazing/film on both sides, you'll create another air pocket thus your energy savings will be multiplied vastly compared to just single sided film. If anyone else that is truly interested in reducing their energy costs and doesn't want to build them themselves we have manufactured thousands of double glazed interior storms. We use aluminum frames and they are compression fit (no tools to install) you can re-use these for decades. We make them here in S.W. Wisconsin and try to keep the prices extremely affordable. Just measure your windows and we will build you some. You can contact us on this site or at 563-542-2134

rhizomatic · 11-26-11, 08:28 PM

Taking advice about sealing first--good basic advice--I'm insulating first. I'm planning subfloor, crawlspace insulation. And I have sealed a set of windows I'll eventually replace. Need to complete raised beds, then I'll try to prototype internal storm windows. Dual pane using clear mylar? I don't want plywood framing, though. Know a "greener" alternative?

warmwxrules · 11-28-11, 11:32 AM

I built some storms that go on the outside of the window (these are double hung with removable screen). I able to notch out the top so they would slide in nicely and also had to run them through the table saw at a 15 degree (i think/i'd have to look again) angle for the slope on the bottom. They fit very nicely. I decided to use a thick 4 mil PE plastic (no UV, so we'll see how long they last) because I'm starting to dislike this thin stuff. Also put some weather stripping. May have to wedge a shim to keep it tight. I'll report back after I get some colder wx. Temps have been pretty mild lately up here.

11-19-11, 11:57 AM	#1
warmwxrules Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 78 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	wood indoor storm windows I'm building these out of cheap pine boards. I figure I can do 2 windows (42x42) for $4 in wood, maybe $2 in plastic/tape/seal, few cents in screws... So maybe $4 a window at most... I'm just using plastic from these kits. I know its a little thin, but it has worked for me. I see Menards sells thick vinyl rolls (4 mil/8 mil), but I didn't think I needed anything that thick. I'll put some together in the next day and post back how they work. Suppose to be cold this coming week. Still not sure how to connect them to the wall. Maybe put some anchors in and screw them down? I used Kreg jig to build the frame. It makes connecting them so easy.

11-20-11, 07:53 AM	#6
Daox Administrator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Germantown, WI Posts: 5,525 Thanks: 1,162 Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts	Greenhouse plastic is much thicker, but you also can't really see through it. Are you worried about puncturing it? For my windows, I followed Guy Marsden's design. IMO it looks great and is easy to install and remove. Building interior window insulation panels Here is my thread on them. I'm still not done though! I do have tons of extra open cell foam though if you're interested. http://ecorenovator.org/forum/conser...m-windows.html __________________ Current project - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Daox; 11-20-11 at 07:57 AM..

11-22-11, 06:37 AM	#8
energywisemfg Guest Posts: n/a	Interior Storm Windows You did a nice job on those inside storms, I would only suggest you put glazing/film on both sides, you'll create another air pocket thus your energy savings will be multiplied vastly compared to just single sided film. If anyone else that is truly interested in reducing their energy costs and doesn't want to build them themselves we have manufactured thousands of double glazed interior storms. We use aluminum frames and they are compression fit (no tools to install) you can re-use these for decades. We make them here in S.W. Wisconsin and try to keep the prices extremely affordable. Just measure your windows and we will build you some. You can contact us on this site or at 563-542-2134

11-19-11, 12:12 PM	#2
S-F You Ain't Me Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Northampton MA Posts: 662 Thanks: 6 Thanked 71 Times in 58 Posts	The people I know who build these just keep them in with a friction fit. Put some qlon all around the outer edge. Kerf it with a table saw to accept the qlon. You can alternatively use the foam strips that just stick on. It just has to be air tight. They also put a support brace across the middle. I look forward to more detailed pictures. I need to do this to my windows in a bad way as they blow.

11-19-11, 12:57 PM	#3
warmwxrules Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 78 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	I hate working with that 2 sided tape/plastic (argh)...not perfect, but I got it put together and hung. Its up there really tight (its tight up against the trim), I'll see how much condensation builds up when the temps drop to around 20F this next week. S-F- These are Marvin windows from the early 90's (wood interior/al exterior) and I get a ton of condensation. I know not all of this is the window (all the heavy breathers/showers/etc), but I run the vent in the bathroom constantly and the heat is set at 65-67F... It mainly is confined to the end bedrooms (coldest bedrooms that face west/north). Not a thing of beauty, but if it saves me money and is reusable (key here), then I'll go with it. I'm sick of ripping off perfectly good plastic window kits every spring (that is what I had been doing for years). This way I can store them in the basement for next winter...

11-19-11, 01:22 PM	#4
S-F You Ain't Me Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Northampton MA Posts: 662 Thanks: 6 Thanked 71 Times in 58 Posts	How do you have them secured and how did you make it air tight? Looks pretty good.

11-19-11, 03:28 PM	#5
warmwxrules Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 78 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	They aren't secured at all right now. Its just so tight against the window trim that they are wedged in there. Not sure if the sealing i used is going to be thick enough to make a seal against the wall. I have a couple rolls of comfort seal. The test comes when I see how much condensation (moisture) is getting inside the window. I finished a second one. Still have 3 more i want to get done this weekend. I think one thing I'll think about in the future is thicker plastic. This .6 mil is very thin. Maybe I will get a big roll of extra clear vinyl (4 mil). Could probably use greenhouse plastic (I'm building a high tunnel greenhouse).

11-20-11, 08:44 AM	#7
warmwxrules Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 78 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Daox- That is where the idea came from. I just bought 1x8x10 boards and ripped them into 1.5" strips (this may be too wide). Then used the miter saw to cut them to length. I'm just looking for a plastic that will last a few years. The problem with doing it this way is the huge size of everything. They are ginormous. I built exterior ones earlier this fall that fit right into where the removable screen windows go. The only problem with those was securing them solidly and I wasn't sure how well the tape would hold up when the temp hits -20F.

11-26-11, 08:28 PM	#9
rhizomatic Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Southern California beach town Posts: 45 Thanks: 22 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Taking advice about sealing first--good basic advice--I'm insulating first. I'm planning subfloor, crawlspace insulation. And I have sealed a set of windows I'll eventually replace. Need to complete raised beds, then I'll try to prototype internal storm windows. Dual pane using clear mylar? I don't want plywood framing, though. Know a "greener" alternative?

11-28-11, 11:32 AM	#10
warmwxrules Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 78 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	I built some storms that go on the outside of the window (these are double hung with removable screen). I able to notch out the top so they would slide in nicely and also had to run them through the table saw at a 15 degree (i think/i'd have to look again) angle for the slope on the bottom. They fit very nicely. I decided to use a thick 4 mil PE plastic (no UV, so we'll see how long they last) because I'm starting to dislike this thin stuff. Also put some weather stripping. May have to wedge a shim to keep it tight. I'll report back after I get some colder wx. Temps have been pretty mild lately up here.