Sanyo 24KHS72 AC/HP DIY install project

[AC_Hacker]

Originally Posted by Dktoast

I realize it's hard to give specific advice -- what I'm wondering about are general principles. I noticed earlier in this thread that AC_Hacker said the units look better, or less bad () over windows or doorways. I can see that. Ok to heat a 25 x 15 living room from one side? Or perhaps with a ceiling unit?

You'll probably never find the perfect place the indoor and outdoor unit(s), but you can find the best compromise.

I'm sticking with the 'over the door' or 'over the window' concept, but strictly from an aesthetic point of view.

You should begin by finding the best possible site for the outside unit because the inside unit(s) won't be so very far away.

So you might want to consider...

• Puting the outside unit where it won't be covered by a snowdrift, if it snows in your area.
  
• Puting the outside unit where it won't be in full sun during the hot, past-noon hours.
  
• Puting the outside unit where it isn't directly exposed to serious rain.
  
• Puting the outside unit where it isn't visible from the street (why tempt fate?).
  
• The exhaust air from the outside unit can be an issue, because on a cold day, the exhaust air will be colder than the ambient air, on a hot day, the exhaust air will be hotter than the ambient air. It would be best if the outside unit were not right next to front doors or back doors for this reason.

Once you have this straight, you're gonna be drilling a 3" hole (or there abouts) through a wall of your house so you'll want to make sure that there aren't any service features where you want to drill, like:

• water pipes
• domestic waste pipes
• sewage vent pipes
• electric wires

You also want to make sure that there aren't any architectural features like soffits, book cases, etc. that might be in the way.

The inside units throttle themselves to match demand very nicely, and most of the time you won't even know they're running. But when they first come on, or if you choose to run them in High-Power mode or if it gets very cold or very hot, you'll know that they're doing the job they are suppose to do. You'll hear a bit of blower sound and you'll feel the air being circulated.

For this reason you probably will not want them to be blowing right where you'll be hanging out a lot, like for instance the couch if you watch TV, or your favorite chair, or a computer or writing desk, or your bed.

Also not so good right next to a stove, due to all the moisture and grease vapors.

I thought about this one for quite a while, and for me it was a compromise, but a pretty good compromise.

I ended siting my outside unit on the side of my house that gets morning sun (good), where snow drifts are rare (good), out of afternoon sun (good), next to the front door (bad), on the front of the house that is visible from the sidewalk (bad), behind an evergreen bush (good).

My inside unit is close enough to the outside unit that I didn't need an extended line set (good), it is located such that it doesn't blow directly on a 'zone of relaxation' (good), but because of the architectural considerations, I was not able to get it over a door or window (bad).

Such are the choices of life...

Best Regards,

-AC_Hacker

[Xringer]

If you are thinking about putting the indoor unit above a door or window,
you might find that routing the line-set might not real easy..

I'm not sure how running a line-set cover (if you use one) will look
if it's right next to your door frame or window frame.




Coastal Contractor: Chilling at Home

I saw an install on youtube, where they ran the lineset down inside a wall.
It was a real PIA and took a lot of extra time to complete.

[Xringer]

Is there an error in the way my thermostat converting from C to F ??

When in F mode, the up button changes the SET display up by 2 degrees F.
When in C mode, the up button changed the SET display up by 1 degree C.

Here's the way it's displayed on the LCD.. (C converted to real F, on the right).

F----C----F (as converted from C).
64--18--64.4
66--19--66.2
68--20--68
70--21--69.8
72--22--71.6
72--23--73.4
74--24--75.2


I'm pretty sure my Sanyo thermostat has a Celsius brain inside it..
It does some kind of conversion before displaying in Fahrenheit.
Since 72 Fahrenheit appears twice, I think it might just be using a table.

I have this strange feeling that when I select 72 F as my set point,
the Sanyo might be wandering over a pretty large temperature span..
Like maybe 70 to 75ish.?

So, we are going to try using Celsius (it's native mode) for a while.


In two areas:
I'm wondering if 1 degree C (1.8 deg F) changes will work better than
the goofy 2 deg F changes.

1. When set to 22 C, more precise temperature control with be exercised.

2. Will we see less high-wattage peaks when we turn up the heat early in the morning.

Twice this week, we have seen a 2 deg F change cause >2 KW peaks..
Most of the time, a call for more heat (of 2 deg F) causes a peak of <1,800 watts..

Anyways, I would be interested in hearing if anyone else has noticed
anything strange in the way their Mini-split works when in Fahrenheit mode.?.

If I see any improvement in operation (using C), I'll post my findings here.

Thanks,
Rich

[st2288]

My Fujitsu does exactly the same.. It jumps 2 deg at a time.. 66.68.70....

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by st2288

My Fujitsu does exactly the same.. It jumps 2 deg at a time.. 66.68.70....

Okay, but when you set your target temperature while in C mode,
and switch back to F, do you see 72 twice?

70--21
72--22
72--23
74--24

I think that's the oddest feature of this 'conversion'..

Thanks,
Rich

[st2288]

I guess they all use the same logic conversion

[MN Renovator]

Xringer, st2288, and everyone else thanks for sharing your ductless installs!

I'm now considering a ductless heat pump as a supplementary source of heating and cooling with trying to use as much capacity from a ductless unit as possible and making up for it with my current 80's tech equipment when the ductless can't keep up. I'm thinking it would be cheaper to go this route rather than tearing out the gas furnace and current air conditioner with all the installation costs and still have less efficiency than a well-positioned ductless setup. I'd probably take care of the mounting and electrical and hire an A/C tech with the nitrogen and vacuum pump to take care of getting it running. I just hope I don't run into a road block if I get everything in place and can't find anyone to do the last step if I do end up installing one of these.

[st2288]

If you follow Xringer installation.. it's pretty easy...

[Xringer]

I wanted the Sanyo to supplement my oil heat. But, it works so well, it's taken over.
Of course it's not super cold here..

If you can't get anyone do the testing and vacuuming procedure, you will have to
bite the bullet and buy the gear to DIY.
The AC guy I used didn't even have to bring any tools. I'm glad I didn't pay him a lot.

Anyways, I lined up two guys Before I placed my order.
I've heard that low cost AC guys can be found on Craigs list.

I wanted to have my own tools, because I figured things break and I might be able to do DIY repairs.
Since my system did spring a leak, I was able to trouble-shoot and then get the replacement unit working quickly.

Taking the DIY route is risky, and if you make a mistake, it could end up costing a bunch.

But, I've heard of people getting estimates where the labor was the main cost.
And if you have studied mini-split installs at all, you know they are not
very labor intensive. Unless you compare it to a window unit..
Installation should not cost more than the AC + lineset etc..

[st2288]

Totally agree with Xringer. If you are handy and have some tools , you should be able to handle it. I put two in and couldn't believe what they want to charge without any power work.. Over $1000.00 with electrical, over $2000.00
Just take your time and read and read and read....