EcoRenovator  

Go Back   EcoRenovator > Improvements > Appliances & Gadgets
Advanced Search
 


Blog 60+ Home Energy Saving Tips Recent Posts Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-02-11, 09:17 AM   #11
iamgeo
Apprentice EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Lakehills, Tx
Posts: 168
Thanks: 4
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Did the OP abandon his thread?

iamgeo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-11, 09:27 AM   #12
Daox
Administrator
 
Daox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Germantown, WI
Posts: 5,525
Thanks: 1,162
Thanked 374 Times in 305 Posts
Default

Hes not the most frequent poster. He'll come around I'm sure.
__________________
Current project -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Daox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-11, 02:42 PM   #13
Slavic381
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The Florida Peninsula
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by iamgeo View Post
Wow! 76 degrees is COLD! I have mine set at 80 during the day when I am home and 82 when I go to bed.
You're in texas. He's in Florida. The humidity in Florida is far, far higher. I remember first stepping foot on The Florida Peninsula at the Miami airport. Felt like stepping into a turkish bath. We keep the thermostat at 73-74.

I would second the radiant barrier suggestion and keeping the thermostat at 84 while out and down to the desired temp by the time You get home.

Don't bother with regular insulation. It will just give off stored heat when You least want it. You want a radiant barrier in the attic. Maybe some regular insulation on top of it to keep dust away so as to limit the reflective barrier efficiency. Possibly coolseal or other white reflecting roof covering for the roof if You have dark shingles/black tar up there.
Slavic381 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-11, 07:56 PM   #14
iamgeo
Apprentice EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Lakehills, Tx
Posts: 168
Thanks: 4
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slavic381 View Post
You want a radiant barrier in the attic. Maybe some regular insulation on top of it to keep dust away so as to limit the reflective barrier efficiency.
I'm a bit confused by that statement.
A radiant barrier should be on the underside of the roof decking. Either painted on or a foil that is already glued to the roof decking, I have the latter.
I have seen the rolls of radiant barrier that you staple to the trusses or lay on top of the insulation in the attic.
But either way I have always read that you do not want to have insulation over the radiant barrier.
iamgeo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-11, 10:28 PM   #15
strider3700
Master EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Vancouver Island BC
Posts: 745
Thanks: 23
Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts
Default

That's backwards to my understanding as well.

I've always seen
shingles/metal/... - radiant - roof decking - trusses - air gap - insulation - ceiling
or
shingles/metal/... - roof decking - trusses - radiant - air gap - insulation - ceiling
strider3700 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-11, 11:12 PM   #16
Slavic381
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The Florida Peninsula
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I've never heard it from anyone either. I'm just saying having something on top of the radiant barrier to collect the dust will prolong the effectiveness of the barrier, not sure if it will help insulation much. Otherwise You will be changing the radiant barrier or flipping it on the other side once it collects dust. Maybe cheap air filter material instead?

They do make "radiant barrier chips" which will stay effective even when the top is covered with dust cause You have multiple layers of the stuff, though they are more expensive.
Slavic381 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-11, 07:01 PM   #17
trikkonceptz
Helper EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 44
Thanks: 3
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Sorry, but it isn't the easiest thing for me to remember to check in all the time... Anyhow an interesting development. The fan that I was using to circulate the air broke . So I figured I would go without for a bit and see what happens.

Now to preface this I still left the opening to my attic through the garage open and my garage door it vented at the bottom. With that said, there has been no change in my attic temperature. Now some of that can be due to the fact that the hottest summer days are behind us now, but I am also questioning the effectiveness of a fan to circulate the air.

Now I am contemplating an all out solar extractor for the roof, I finally saw a company who is rated for the hurricane code in S. Florida. Otherwise I was going to invest in one of those extractors that pulls air from the garage and dumps it into the attic forcing a larger volume of air out through the vents along the lower roof line.

SO TTFN while I continue with my new fish tank in the other thread ..lol
trikkonceptz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-11, 01:00 PM   #18
Phantom
Apprentice EcoRenovator
 
Phantom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 101
Thanks: 13
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Default

So there is an access panel in the garage to the attic? If so I would get a box fan and build a frame around it so it will force air in. Definitively get a programmable t-stat and test it on the per set points and adjust it from there the Honeywell unit I have even has a setting that will let you select how quickly you want the house to cool when it reaches the new set point.
Phantom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-11, 08:45 PM   #19
Slavic381
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The Florida Peninsula
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trikkonceptz View Post
there has been no change in my attic temperature.
As long as I had a radiant barrier on the floor of the attic I wouldn't concern myself much with temperature and, as far as ventilation, would just make sure that I have enough bottom vents (soffits/eves) and top vent(s) (Wind turbine Roof Fan) for proper airflow. And I mean TOP vent(s) for proper airflow, not middle.

The attic temp would actually be higher because the radiant barrier would block so much heat back into the attic, but below the barrier and the inside would BE and, more importantly, FEEL much cooler because 5% of HEAT is transferred through conduction, 20% through convection, but 75% through RADIATION

Unlike radiant barrier regular insulation does not block heat. The R value of regular insulation rates resistance to CONDUCTIVE heat transfer and is not applicable to a radiant barrier.

Without a radiant barrier, by the time You are back from work, a lot of is absorbed and STORED in Your insulation and is ready for You to FEEL it's RADIANT glow even though Your thermostat is trying to convince You that the AIR TEMPERATURE is "comfortable". (Unless You have a thermostat that measures "mean radiant temperature" or a "globe thermometer")

BTW, apparently It is OK to put a radiant barrier on top of existing insulation AS LONG AS IT IS NOT A VAPOR BARRIER. (So perforated or chips would do.)


Last edited by Slavic381; 09-26-11 at 08:54 PM..
Slavic381 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Ad Management by RedTyger
Inactive Reminders By Icora Web Design