Occupancy Switch

Xringer · 03-09-13, 02:21 PM

Saw this at Home Depot.. Westek Plug in Motion Activated Control-MLC4BC at The Home Depot

Saw this one on Ebay (Not UL listed)..
Energy Saving Motion Sensitive Automatic Light Lamp Sensor Switch AC 180 250V 2 | eBay

I want to try both of them. The Ebay unit is in the mail.
I'll post a review after I get them going.

hamsterpower · 03-10-13, 07:38 AM

wire each with a plug at first and see what the load of the switch is. I've heard sometimes these use more power watching in stand-by than leaving the light on.

Xringer · 03-10-13, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hamsterpower

wire each with a plug at first and see what the load of the switch is. I've heard sometimes these use more power watching in stand-by than leaving the light on.

I read the reviews on Amazon and IIRC, there was a problem when the load is too light.
The light might come on and stay on..

I want to use these on small under-counter F-tubes (20wattish), so there shouldn't be a problem.

I don't recall anything about the stand-by load. But, it's easy to check.
If the box gets warm while in standby, plug in the Kil-A-Watt..
Followed by returning it to China!

Ryland · 03-10-13, 10:15 AM

The motion sensor switches that I've tested tend to draw around 2-5 watts in standby and unless it's labeled as working with LED's and CFL's I would not use it on a florescent light as it is going to put a small amount of current to that light to run the switch and in my motion sensor switched light sockets it will make a CFL glow or flicker and an LED just stays on.

Xringer · 03-25-13, 12:07 PM

That Ebay sensor came today and didn't work at all..
Energy Saving Motion Sensitive Automatic Light Lamp Sensor Switch AC 180 250V 2 | eBay

I'm getting senile! "AC 180-250V" means it won't work for my 120v lights!!

Edit:
My suspicions confirmed! When I looked at the install info with the new 'Sensor'..
There wasn't one word about Motion Sensing.. Just about turning off and on with daylight..
Which it should do, in addition to Motion Sensing.

There is no way a simple LDR can sense the IR from your body in a dark room!

This device is just for turning lights off during the daylight hours. I've been rooked!

Here's an actual motion sensor chip. (from my garage security system).

Xringer · 03-25-13, 03:25 PM

The other sensor I'm testing is from Amazon. SensorPlug - Motion Activated Electrical Outlet - Amazon.com

I have it controlling the single tube florescent light above the kitchen sink.

I've taped over about 70% of the sensor dome. I want it to turn on the light,
only when someone stands at the sink (left of the microwave). It's kinda working.
In a week or two, we'll know if we have a good setup, or not.

stevehull · 03-25-13, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hamsterpower

wire each with a plug at first and see what the load of the switch is. I've heard sometimes these use more power watching in stand-by than leaving the light on.

Oh crap

! I put several of these in (motion sensors) when we designed our other home in 1990. Had three kids whose MAIN purpose in life was . . . to leave lights on.

Put them in the kid's bathroom, garage, den, study - I am now wondering just how much I saved . . . .

Steve

Quest · 04-29-13, 05:55 PM

Thanks for sharing Xringer! Your unit (from Eprey) seems to be a light sensor only, judging by that CDS sensor in the pic.

I had my share of frustration RE: occupancy sensor: spent time and $$ and bought some literally "unusable" ones from GeeEee, etc. which claimed to work on fluorescent lamps (magnetic ballast only), and it didn't work on all my compact CFLs (they use SCRs instead of relays, and must have a load on them in order for them to work properly, CFLs don't have much of a load when off, so those sensors didn't work at all).

Ended up buying Lutron online (1st one bought from Amazon, 2nd one bought locally from Lowes) and they both worked beautifully.

Now, 1 of them used for staircase illumination (lightbulbs are 2 stores high, 2x9Watts Ikea CFLs), 2nd one used in lower story bathroom (where kids frequent). Both works beautifully and as advertised.

Q.

Xringer · 04-29-13, 08:20 PM

My little Sensor Plug (from Amazon) is working pretty well.
It seems to come on (when I want it on) about 95% of the time.
Which isn't too bad when you considered all the Gorilla tape on the sensor dome..

I like the hands-free light operation. Even if it sometimes blinks off and back on,
after it times out. Only sometimes. Only once did it turn off while I was at the sink.
I wonder what's inside this thing. I have a feeling that it's a bit temperature
sensitive, otherwise it's operation would be more stable..

Servicetech · 11-09-13, 01:11 PM

2 different types of sensors for hardwire installs. One requires a neutral wire and works with all light fixtures, the other type is "power stealing" and only works with cetain types of lamps. Be sure you purchase the correct type.

03-09-13, 02:21 PM	#1
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Occupancy Switch Saw this at Home Depot.. Westek Plug in Motion Activated Control-MLC4BC at The Home Depot Saw this one on Ebay (Not UL listed).. Energy Saving Motion Sensitive Automatic Light Lamp Sensor Switch AC 180 250V 2 \| eBay I want to try both of them. The Ebay unit is in the mail. I'll post a review after I get them going. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

03-25-13, 12:07 PM	#5
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	Another mistake.. That Ebay sensor came today and didn't work at all.. Energy Saving Motion Sensitive Automatic Light Lamp Sensor Switch AC 180 250V 2 \| eBay I'm getting senile! "AC 180-250V" means it won't work for my 120v lights!! Edit: My suspicions confirmed! When I looked at the install info with the new 'Sensor'.. There wasn't one word about Motion Sensing.. Just about turning off and on with daylight.. Which it should do, in addition to Motion Sensing. There is no way a simple LDR can sense the IR from your body in a dark room! This device is just for turning lights off during the daylight hours. I've been rooked! Here's an actual motion sensor chip. (from my garage security system). Attached Thumbnails __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less.. Last edited by Xringer; 03-25-13 at 02:31 PM.. Reason: LDR

03-25-13, 03:25 PM	#6
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	The other sensor I'm testing is from Amazon. SensorPlug - Motion Activated Electrical Outlet - Amazon.com I have it controlling the single tube florescent light above the kitchen sink. I've taped over about 70% of the sensor dome. I want it to turn on the light, only when someone stands at the sink (left of the microwave). It's kinda working. In a week or two, we'll know if we have a good setup, or not. Attached Thumbnails __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

04-29-13, 08:20 PM	#9
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	My little Sensor Plug (from Amazon) is working pretty well. It seems to come on (when I want it on) about 95% of the time. Which isn't too bad when you considered all the Gorilla tape on the sensor dome.. I like the hands-free light operation. Even if it sometimes blinks off and back on, after it times out. Only sometimes. Only once did it turn off while I was at the sink. I wonder what's inside this thing. I have a feeling that it's a bit temperature sensitive, otherwise it's operation would be more stable.. __________________ My hobby is installing & trying to repair mini-splits EPA 608 Type 1 Technician Certification ~ 5 lbs or less..

03-10-13, 07:38 AM	#2
hamsterpower Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 142 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts	wire each with a plug at first and see what the load of the switch is. I've heard sometimes these use more power watching in stand-by than leaving the light on.

03-10-13, 10:15 AM	#4
Ryland Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Western Wisconsin. Posts: 913 Thanks: 127 Thanked 82 Times in 71 Posts	The motion sensor switches that I've tested tend to draw around 2-5 watts in standby and unless it's labeled as working with LED's and CFL's I would not use it on a florescent light as it is going to put a small amount of current to that light to run the switch and in my motion sensor switched light sockets it will make a CFL glow or flicker and an LED just stays on.

04-29-13, 05:55 PM	#8
Quest Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Canada Posts: 109 Thanks: 13 Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts	Thanks for sharing Xringer! Your unit (from Eprey) seems to be a light sensor only, judging by that CDS sensor in the pic. I had my share of frustration RE: occupancy sensor: spent time and $$ and bought some literally "unusable" ones from GeeEee, etc. which claimed to work on fluorescent lamps (magnetic ballast only), and it didn't work on all my compact CFLs (they use SCRs instead of relays, and must have a load on them in order for them to work properly, CFLs don't have much of a load when off, so those sensors didn't work at all). Ended up buying Lutron online (1st one bought from Amazon, 2nd one bought locally from Lowes) and they both worked beautifully. Now, 1 of them used for staircase illumination (lightbulbs are 2 stores high, 2x9Watts Ikea CFLs), 2nd one used in lower story bathroom (where kids frequent). Both works beautifully and as advertised. Q.

11-09-13, 01:11 PM	#10
Servicetech Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Moore Oklahoma Posts: 267 Thanks: 108 Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts	2 different types of sensors for hardwire installs. One requires a neutral wire and works with all light fixtures, the other type is "power stealing" and only works with cetain types of lamps. Be sure you purchase the correct type.