06-28-14, 09:19 PM | #61 |
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I was not implying anything other then what the numbers denote ?
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06-28-14, 09:26 PM | #62 |
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What ever you do DO NOT ADD INSULATION TO YOUR FRIDGE - I REPEAT DO NOT
You don't want helpful advice - YOU GET NONE ya grumpy mf lol |
06-29-14, 02:11 AM | #63 | |
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Quote:
-AC
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06-29-14, 06:58 PM | #64 |
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Please explain. Are you talking about adding insulation to a fridge with coils that would be insulated or are you saying not to add insulation inside the fridge? I'm looking to do the latter because I don't need as much cubic footage, I have the spare insulation, and there's no room for insulation on the top, bottom, or sides unless I put the insulation inside the refrigerator.
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06-30-14, 12:05 AM | #65 | |
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Quote:
However if you gave up on your present fridge, and did a Freezerator conversion, your energy use would be cut in half, or even better. -AC
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06-30-14, 11:22 AM | #66 |
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I understand what you are saying but if I want both a refrigerator and a freezer in my kitchen without taking up additional space in the kitchen, adding insulation to a fridge/freezer combo unit seems to be the best route to go about it. By putting the insulation inside the fridge, I reduce the volume of air that is lost from when the refrigerator is opened along with being able to reach a higher R value than I otherwise can by putting it all on the outside. Depending on how much spare insulation I have left over I'll be putting some on the back and top as well, I just don't have room on the sides and the design of my fridge doesn't allow for any under the refrigerator.
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06-30-14, 12:17 PM | #67 | |
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Quote:
-AC
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06-16-15, 04:57 PM | #68 |
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Freezerator Update...
The freezerator keeps chugging along.
It is still condensing frost on a continual basis, so there is no buildup. Produce that is in the freezerator still lasts surprisingly longer than in conventional refrigerators. I have purchased a, aluminum food service tray that is as long as the freezerator is wide. The front 'feet' of the freezerator are in the tray, and the rear 'feet' of the freezerator are shimmed to bring the freezerator to just slightly more forward than level. So, occasionally the condensation runs out of the door and into the aluminum tray and evaporates. I never see any build-up. My Kill-a-Watt looses its memory from time to time, but this morning's reading was over a 90.35 hour run, and the Kill-a-Watt recorded 1.46 kW-h used during that time. My local electricity rate is $0.11/kW-h. This calculates to $15.57/per year. All this from the least energy efficient mini-freezer on the market (previously well used), that was converted to a refrigerator with a $20 part. Best, -AC_Hacker
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06-16-15, 05:50 PM | #69 |
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That is very good energy usage.
My 4.5 cu mini refrigerator uses 235 KHh a year and I had to shop around to find one that low. |
06-16-15, 07:05 PM | #70 | |
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Quote:
The unit I chose was chosen on the basis that I found it on Craig's list, it was cheap, and my girlfriend could help with transportation. I already knew that the model I chose was at the bottom of the heap, but my intention was to see what the percentage of improvement would be as compared to the a similar unit, designed to be used as a refrigerator. The results went way beyond my expectations. I imagine that the percentage of improvement would hold for a more efficient mini-freezer, too. And it would be even better if a chest-type freezer was used, but I know that with my deplorable life-style, many things, heavy things, would accumulate on top of the freezerator lid, and I'd have to deal with them when I was grumpy and hungry. I'm very happy with the result. -AC
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