10-16-16, 03:26 PM | #41 | |
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Quote:
Here is the shingle style: Last edited by Roostre; 10-16-16 at 03:27 PM.. Reason: add pic |
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10-16-16, 04:08 PM | #42 |
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Bill of materials
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10-16-16, 04:38 PM | #43 |
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Roostre,
I am assuming this is a 10 panel x 4 row system? Buy your own ground wire locally. Call Renvu, speak to a sales rep and ask for a first time discount. I am not sure why you need 42 drops as you need three strings of inverters (13, 13 and 14). The maximum number of inverters per string is 17. They regularly give me the drops for ~ $10 instead of $17. You don't need the Envoy S, but rather the Envoy M (cheaper). I think you can also use the XR10 rails instead of the XR 100. Buy the circuit breaker at Lowes or Home Depot and make up your own rooftop electric line combiner box - Carlon box from Home Depot ($12). Does this help? Steve
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10-16-16, 11:55 PM | #44 |
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Maybe you have already seen this but just in case you have not. It was very helpful when I did my design. I really helped to make sure I did not mass any parts.
Unirac - Project Info [ SOLARMOUNT ]
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10-17-16, 12:01 AM | #45 |
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This is great I would not mind being a little over sized. Maybe later you will put in a mini split so you can heat with solar anyway.
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10-17-16, 11:20 AM | #46 |
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Ok, I think that an 11 x 3 grid would work and look the best for this roof. Using this I get 8.75kW system and the cost is much lower, which gives me some room to pay for engineering plans, my electrician and possibly some labor help. Also, the power company states that no disconnect is needed on systems under 10kWh.
I'm filling out the Intertie agreement and it seems to be full of reasons you should not go solar. Obviously the power company is not happy about it. One question in particular has me stumped; It asks for "Net metering facility available fault duty at the point of common coupling:________" Is it asking how much capacity is left (open breaker spaces/available amps out of the 200 total) or the size of the service (200 amps)?? MY master electrician will probably know, but he's on a night shift rotation, so I don't want to wake him. Anybody? |
10-17-16, 12:08 PM | #47 |
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I think the “Is it asking how much capacity is left” would be talking about the 120% rule.
https://www.civicsolar.com/support/i...it-important-0 I had to put in a 225 amp main load box and use my old 200 amp main breaker in it. This allowed me to back feed more amps. 200A x 1.2 -200A = 70A so I can back feed 70Amps. Remember the back feed breaker can only run 80% load. My back feed breaker is 70 amp so I can take 56 amp solar. I am actually sending 50.4 amps to it right now.
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10-17-16, 01:56 PM | #48 |
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Roostre,
"Ok, I think that an 11 x 3 grid would work and look the best for this roof. Using this I get 8.75kW system and the cost is much lower, which gives me some room to pay for engineering plans, my electrician and possibly some labor help. Also, the power company states that no disconnect is needed on systems under 10kWh." Does your utility require an engineering plan by a licensed PE engineer? Usually, this is just a plan of the system. I do like to put in a disconnect for safety reasons. These are not expensive (<$100). Also look at panel installation in the landscape orientation. Sometimes this just "fits" better on the roof. Steve
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10-17-16, 02:25 PM | #49 |
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I did not have to get a plan by a licensed PE engineer. I just needed to draw up a one wire diagram of the system and detail out what equipment that was used.
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10-17-16, 02:27 PM | #50 |
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Thanks Steve.
It looks like the fire department requires 3 feet of set back on all sides of the panel array. This limits my south facing roof on the house to 22 panels, but I can add 3 on the east facing garage dormer and possibly 12 on my shop. This new information has changed things quite a bit. Now I will need to trench from the shop to the house and run conduit; or possibly go to higher watt/more $$$ panels. ??? I'm going to get a pro to evaluate my panel. If it needs updated I will be better off doing it now. |
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