I bought a project 96 Saturn SC2 car.

[pinballlooking]

I went to Upull it in Columbia SC. We have some self-serve junk yards here but no older Saturn’s are in them at this time. If you are a Veteran you get in the yard for no charge.

My son could not come help me. You have to be 16 to enter the yard.

The valve cover on our car is plastic it is known to warp from heat and leak.
The older years 93-95 had aluminum covers they are nosier but they do not leak oil. You need the bolts and spacers from the older cover.
I picked one of these up at the JY $19.95

Our car was missing the visors completely I picked up to that we will recover.
The drivers side on the 96 had an uncovered mirror I can’t stand that so I picked one from a newer
Saturn that has a covered mirror. (Two visors) $11.90

His overhead light switches did not work I was able to find one 7.50

New dipstick 3.50, wheel cap 3.50

The timing chain cover had the bolt ear broken off. He did not take off the bolt in the top center of the timing chain cover. He tried to get it off and broke off the bolt ear on the cover. This cover was pain to get off you have to take off motor mounts AC, PS pump. Valve cover all pulleys motor mount…. It took a long time to get off but the cover was just $13.95.

Total parts cost $69

[pinballlooking]

Tractor supply had a sale. If spend $50 get $10 off so we now have paint, hardener and reducer. I also have parts washer solvent. I ended up doing two web orders and one in person so I saved $30.
The one gallon of paint came to $24.81.







I have Freon 134 and I ordered a valve from china to release the Freon and it just came in the mail today.

[pinballlooking]

I received my main motor and Transmission Mount. The other two mounts are on back order.

[jeff5may]

The dog bone strut mounts can be refurbished. Prothane insert kit 7-510. Does both struts, works better than stock. Cost is around 40 bucks.

Beware of crappy upper and trans mounts! I had to immediately replace my upper when I bought my SC2, because someone went to the zone or advance for one when the OEM mount failed. The only upper I will use is the OEM part. All of the others either transmit vibration to the steering wheel and/or dash, or let the engine flop around when you take off or downshift.

[pinballlooking]

I will look into the dog bones thanks for the info. The motor mount I bought will cost about what I paid for it to ship it back so I will try it. Oem is a about 100 so if this one fails I will get that one. The one I bout is not frown face one. But lots of people agree with you go Oem on this mount. It is easy to replace later if this one goes bad.
Again go advice thanks.
We have the drives side window working.
I used blue Loctite on the new bolts just incase.
This was the first time my son saw the window working. One thing done many to go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riolCfok9-Q

[pinballlooking]

I put my 3D printer to work on my headlight motor. They are just small tabs the help keep the cover in place. I found the file to create these on the internet.
I put silicone on the cover to seal it up so it really should not need the tabs. But just in case they will keep the cover in place.

[Xringer]

My Middle-age-crazy car was a Red 1991 Plymouth Laser RS 2L. (a bit like the Mitsubishi Eclipse)..
http://zombdrive.com/images/1991-plymouth-laser-4.jpg
I sold it to a buddy when I decided I needed 4WD, (1999 CRV picked up on Y2K).
He used the Laser for commuting for years, before giving it to his son.
They just sold it last summer because his son was going to a distant college.

I was driving the Laser, when my buddy got married.. Time flies..

[where2]

Originally Posted by pinballlooking

I am going to redo the headliner I bought 2 cans 3M Super Trim Adhesive.
I ordered headliner material from Joann fabric they canceled my ordered twice. So I called them and NC had some so they did a store to store transfer. I used a 50% off coupon so 3 yards was $23. This is enough to do headliner and visors.

Double check your favorite forums, but I used 3M Hi-Strength 90 adhesive on my headliner material in the 2004 wagon when I redid it. Two plus years later, it's still hanging tough in the heat and humidity of South Florida (wish I could say as much for the OEM clear coat on the outside). I spent quite some time reading my favorite VW forums before I went with the 3M 90.

I used the JoAnn's headliner material, in the black color, along with a 20% or 50% or some crazy off coupon that saved me $$$ that I used toward adhesive cans at the big box hardware store. I found the crumbly old foam backing from the original headliner was soluble to an extent with acetone. It took numerous rags to remove the old material. Once I had most of the old backing goo removed, I sanded the headliner board with some 120 or 220 grit to give the new adhesive something to bite into. Depending on the area you need to cover with material, consider having a spare can of adhesive on hand. I had to run out and pickup a third can, but I was covering the headliner for a wagon, not a sedan.

Best of luck with that project. I picked a sunny day, set up some saw horses in the front yard in the shade, and finished before sunset.

[pinballlooking]

The plastic gear I bought for the headlight motor did not work not even once. The ebay seller refunded me.
So I ordered a new brass CNC gear $26.


Here it is working. One more thing off the list.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vjl_X...ature=youtu.be

[jeff5may]

Looky what I picked up today:


Only 400 bucks plus a 50 dollar core. Saw it running smoothly Friday. Single cam engines were even cheaper.

Need any wing dings?