Solar Back-Up power project

[Xringer]

I use a MSW inverter that can produce 2.5kw (5kw peak, 120vac).
I've tested it with a 1500w space heater , and the inverter heat sink doesn't even get warm.

I have to conclude is unit is very efficiently turning DC into AC.
So, instead of trying to make AC loads work off DC, I'm just going to use AC.

I'm also thinking buying a 230vac MSW inverter (48dc input) to use with
my solar+bank for powering my Sanyo AC heatpump.
I might be able to charge up the bank and cool (or heat) my home at the same time.
Depending on the sun..

[Xringer]

I impulsively placed a bid ($250) on a new inverter..
I've decided that we need another inverter (with real sine waves) to power
the main downstairs AC circuit. (The FIOS box, backup PC workstations,
freezer and new dehumidifier).
The new dehumidifier will run on the old MSW inverter,
but makes a noise like a buzz saw. And that can't be good.


Anyways, this PowerJack was the only one that I could find that used 48vdc in this
power and price range. They have some 12vdc 1.5kw units, but these
48vdc units are hard to find right now.

They billed me for it, I hope they can make one (in China) and get mailed out before fall..

I was just thinking, my old 1200w GTI powerjack will be able to
piggyback on top of this new Sinewaver.
Just in case 800w of PV (+battery bank) isn't enough for the daytime load.
I could wire in an extra 500w of PV from the tracker array for a total of 1.3kw.



1500W pure sine wave power inverter

48V/110V

Dc to AC
1500w pure sine wave power inverter
This is a 48volt DC to 110volt AC power inverter with 1500 watts continuous power handling and 3000 Watts peak power, pure sine wave, thermal shutdown, reverse polarity protection, low voltage shutdown, low voltage alarm,

specification

Item No.
PSW-1500-48-110

Continuous Output Power
1500W

Max Output Power
3000W

DC Input Voltage
DC 48V

AC Output Voltage
110VAC
Regulation ±5%

Frequency
60Hz±3%

Efficiency
87%

Output Wave Form
Pure Sine Wave

Input Low Voltage Protection
YES

Input Reverse Polarity?
YES

circuit protection
YES

Output Short Circuit Protection
YES

Overload Protection
YES
Net weight 5kgs
Certificate CE

[Travis]

Originally Posted by strider3700

sweet. Mind if I ask what this has run you? My constantly wasted 45 watts of panels would make me much happier if they charged a battery bank then the excess went to keeping a PC or the woodstove fan going.

My small power pack will sit in my storage shed for days, sometimes weeks without me using it, so I started investing in 4" 12VDC fans. Their size was determined by the dimension of the air vents. The fans are medium-duty, use 350mA each, and cost $15. Connected to the charge controller's LVD, they draw air 24/7. For the long periods that I don't work in my shed, the 85 Watt panel is able to keep the bank topped off, and exchange the air simultaneously.

While I don't feel a 'breeze' inside my shed, the draft from the outside vents is significant. It makes me feel better about my property sitting in the heat/humidity of SW Texas.

[Xringer]

"the heat/humidity of SW Texas."

I missed the humidity of SW Texas, since I left home in 1963, just before they built
a big dam on the river, just north of town. (Del Rio).
I grew up in a 'dry' town, and found it very dank when I came back for visits..
But, after the sun comes out for 5 or 6 hours, it dries back up..

It's funny, I'm sitting here thinking about turning on the heatpump, because it's 53F here..
In the meantime, I'm dressed like it's winter, looking at the weekend forecast for Del Rio, of 103 deg F.. Dang!!

That's no country for old men..

Cheers,
Rich

[Xringer]

It's here!


The new inverter came in from China and seems to work.
One of the coils inside was loose, since it was wrapped in tape before it was
glued to the PCB, it didn't hold very well and (Fedex) broke the wire strap that held it down.
But, that had no impact on it's operation. Testing at 40 to 600 watts is okay so far.

~~~

When I connected the new Dehumidifier to the load, the new inverter started beeping like
crazy, while the display on the Kill-a-watt was blinking 800w. But, it quickly settled down and started working.

I suspect this 1500w rating might be some Chinese Hype, and I should run it under 1kw.

In order to run the Dehumidifier this summer, (if we actually have a summer)
I'll disconnect the hot-water heating element and piggy-back
the 500w tracking array into the basement load circuit.
(The 500w PV will need to be rewired to series-parallel for 35vdc @14A)

The old 1200w GTI AC output wired onto new 1500w true sinewave (to simulate a grid-tie) is 800w+500w (1.3kw Max) of PV.

So, I should be able to run up to 1kw of AC loads and still be charging the
48v battery bank, when it's sunny.

The main loads will be the Dehumidifier, the basement freezer and this PC.
These loads vary a great deal, so at times of low wattage, the bank can play catch-up. I hope!

This system is looking very complicated but your effort is really appreciated. Your information is really very useful.

[Vern2]

Xringer,

I wish I could come up with some earth shattering vision for you, because I've done so much reading on PV panels and PV systems. Your doing a lot of things right. My biggest help is try not to do any converting from dc to battery back to ac the loss is greater then 50%. If your building something for the end of the world scenario, don't bother. Food and water may be a better option. If your building somthing to save money, my suggestions may help.

Because I reached a conclusion on this, I can tell you what I've done.

1) Best PV system, is one that tracks the sun.

2) Next best is tilt array.

3) Last - fixed tilt, depending on when you want productivity, winter, summer.

I went with a tilt system where I can produce max electric, winter or summer. If my total production reduces my consumption, I feel I'm getting the most out of my pv system. Everything I generate during sun light, connected to the grid, will be subtracted from my night time use of electricity.

If your thinking black-outs. You can't do it, without batteries. As you charge batteries everyday, being ready for a black-out, how many days, of being prepared, during the year are there?

Sounds like a generator is a better option. Use your PV for reduces my consumption.

Vern

[Xringer]

My (tracking) back-up system was made for a unique 2-part event.

1. Heavy rain has caused ground water to rise, which will lead to basement flooding.

2. The grid fails and I need a few hours of AC power to keep my pumps working.

(I've only seen this unique event happen a few times in the last 30 years,
but we just replaced the basement flooring, from the last flood).


I also own a 5KW gas generator, which I can use in the case of an extended grid outage.
It's not something that I would want to use during an ongoing storm.

Because of the way life seems to play tricks on me, I'm pretty sure that
my back-up system will never be needed during it's life-time. (or mine).

[Vern2]

Xringer,

You can move a lot of water with a pump in a short amount of time. I don't know what the in flow of water your dealing with.

It sounds like your basement flooding is a random event and you need a toilet valve to turn on the ejection pump. You might rig up a light on the main floor letting you know the sump pump has been activated. A larger sump hole may allow you to run the pump once a day. Like I said I don't know what the in flow is. Once a day pump activation may be an interval you can deal with. Arizona is not a place where basements are common.

Sounds like you live on a leaky boat. This may be a bigger problem then what meets the eye. Just a quess... your steam wall may be leaking. Steam wall - is the concrete seam where the wall and floor meet in the basement. You may need interior drainage system that will guide the water using drainage pipes to the well (sump hole) so that the pump can pump the water out as needed. If you have no warning when the basement is going to flood. The size of the sump hole you dig must meet the intervals you check the basemant for flooding... I'm sure get the idea.

Hope you can stay above water,

Vern

[Xringer]

We had a winter storm recently and lost Grid power.
I wondered if those old 12 volt car batteries (marked October 2010) still had any juice in them.?.
The back-up system still works! Got some lights on and put away the flashlights.
We got grid power back in about 2 hours, and the pack voltage still looked okay.

Today, I checked the water level in the cells and it was fine. But I see some stuff like white power down on top of the plates.

Even if they have very low usage, I have a feeling that a decade is a long time for these batteries.
We How long are these old batteries going last?

If we get some sun this weekend, I'll test the system battery health.
I have a feeling they might need replacing.
~~~~

I'm looking at a Sine wave inverter, because we have a CPAK now and I don't want to harm it's little power supply module. Plus, we have a lot more 'devices' plugged in now.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074BQJRFF
This one: Xijia 3000W (Peak Power 6000W) Pure Sine Wave Inverter DC 48V to AC 120V 60HZ seems like it might be pretty good.

Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks,
Rich