01-12-17, 09:34 PM | #21 |
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Do the newer , higher SEER MS's use less refrigerant ( for the same BTU ) , compared to the older / lower SEER units ( like our 13 SEER living room unit ) ?
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01-13-17, 01:11 PM | #22 | |
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Again, amazing information here....
Xringer (Rich), I copied your post and forwarded it to my son, he replied that he has the following equipment but doesn't have any of the recovery materials.
Looking at my receipts from the install back in 2013, I see a 15' Mitsubishi line set. If I recall, they cut the lines shorter but couldn't go any shorter than... Sorry, can't remember but I can have my son check if it helps.. I took a photo of the side of the unit this morning. It indicates 'Factory Charged' with 1lb 12oz of R410A. --Shelby Quote:
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01-13-17, 01:12 PM | #23 |
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Hi Wyr,
I have two 9,000 BTU Hyper Heat units. The one that's having a problem is 21 or 22 SEER and the other is 28 SEER. The problem unit holds 1lb 12oz. Hope that helps, Shelby |
01-13-17, 03:04 PM | #24 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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Shelby it sounds like your Son has the right tools for the job..
I'm pretty sure no recovery is going to be needed on this project. If your line set is approximately 15 feet, 28 oz of R410a should work great.. Good Luck
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01-13-17, 03:37 PM | #25 |
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You are way past me . The 2nd MS we installed in our bedroom is just a 16 SEER . 11,600 or 11,800 BTU .
I 100% agree with Xinger . If the system has leaked to zero psi , I can see no need for recovery equipment . Just guessing , but I think the less refrigerant the MS holds , the more critical it is to weigh the charge of refrigerant ? I think I first purchased Nylog Blue for automotive R134a then used it for R410a . The make Nylog Red for refrigerants that use mineral oil . I suspect , as long as I keep the little squeeze bottle capped properly , it will last a long time in storage . So , you are going to take the IDU off the wall , disconnect the line set and take the IDU down to work on it ? And replace the evaporator coil in the original system ? Then put everything back together ? Not sure how your line set is run / installed . Reversing the process on either of my MS's , to disconnect the line set from the IDU would be a chore . If your MS had 100% leaked out & moisture / air entered the system , seems to me you need to purge the system really well with dry nitrogen to try to flush out as much moisture as you can . Then do a really good job of vacuuming the system . I think I would look into replacing / adding a new filter dryer while flowing dry nitrogen through the dryer . Then quickly get the system buttoned up . Wish you all the luck in the world & please keep us updated . God bless Wyr |
02-04-17, 04:16 PM | #26 |
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Many apologies for the delay in updating this thread. I received the new part on Thursday (a revised part from Mitsubishi) and my son arrived bright and early this morning - eager to get started.
He removed and disassembled the indoor unit - talk about filthy. Are you ladies/gentlemen cleaning the blower wheels annually? If not you might want to consider it. It definitely took longer for him to disassemble because of all the photos he took so I could document the procedure. He cleaned all the parts and took the blower wheel outside to pressure spray out the gunk. He installed the new heat ex. and took about the same time to assemble due to all the photos. The unit is back on the wall and looks like new. Outside, he inspected the flares and discovered they were damaged (not the word he used) on the side connecting to the indoor unit. He suspected the A/C repair people over tightened them as they were slightly warped. He removed all four of the flares and re-flared them. A little nylog and he torqued them to spec. He was then able to vacuum the system down to 67 microns in about 5 minutes. He isolated the pump from the gauge and let it sit for an hour. It drifted to about 90 and held. And we're now in the stage where he pressured the system with dry nitrogen. We monitored it for an hour and it's held pretty steady. The temps are dropping outside so he's going to come back in the morning to check if the pressure is still holding. He'll then open the valves and pull another deep vacuum and weigh in the charge... Fingers crossed... And some photos.. In one of the photos you can see the refrigerant leak (oil) on the left front side of the heat ex. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Shelby For This Useful Post: | pelotin (03-05-17) |
02-04-17, 06:34 PM | #27 |
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Were the connections to the heat exchanger brazed / silver soldered ?
God bless Wyr |
02-05-17, 07:38 AM | #28 |
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Son is doing a GREAT job. Let us know how it works!
Steve
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02-05-17, 02:40 PM | #29 |
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02-05-17, 02:42 PM | #30 |
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Thank you so much Steve, you made his day...
--Shelby |
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