08-25-17, 09:02 PM | #21 |
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When i get into the slow season i will be adding pics because i will be trying some of the things discussed
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08-26-17, 12:16 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
If employed by the OP, the desiccant system would not replace the mini split, it would complement operation by attacking the latent load. It could feed off of the outdoor unit waste heat, though. Direct contact not recommend (salt water and aluminum or copper could prove deadly to the heat pump), but a simple helical wrap around the compressor discharge pipe would make a good preheat exchanger. In contrast, adding a groundwater quench stage to the heat pump acts as a double effect regenerator would behave with the AWG system. Different methods same objective. Try not to violate any patents making either of these work. https://www.google.com/patents/US20100090356 Last edited by jeff5may; 08-26-17 at 10:23 AM.. Reason: Clarification |
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08-27-17, 07:38 AM | #23 |
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I am going to do something this evening i should have done already .The two refrigerant lines comeing out i plan to get some hose insulation and better insulate them . I am sure they are getting some extra heat from the outside makeing it less efficient
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08-27-17, 04:24 PM | #24 |
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Went today and picked up a mister thing to hook to the water hose . Supposed to use 10gph. Being i am on well water it should help me out in another way . But have it spraying on the outside unit . Forgot to pick up some foam . The old foam is about hadit that i had on there. Will get a few numbers crunched tomarrow going to run it tonight see if it helps out on keeping the entire house cool or not . I am thinking my 220 volt meter is bad off so i dont really have a way to test wattage drop or anything
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08-27-17, 09:27 PM | #25 |
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Grab a kwh meter from eBay or Amazon. The type to look for has inductive current sensing. Rather than just plug the unit into the instrument (like the kill-a-watt meters do), then into a wall outlet, the current sensors wrap around the hot wires of your mini split. There are types that have a ring sensor, and others that have a claw sensor, to measure the current draw. With the ring type, the power wires must be disconnected and run through the ring, then reconnected. With the claw sensors, the claw is opened to wrap around the wires, then closed. Obviously the ring type is more permanent and less foolproof than the claw type.
You can spend as much or as little as you like on the kwh meter. Naturally the more expensive units are going to have more bells and whistles than the economy models. Wireless communication with another device is a big one. Monitor the usage with an app that will spit out graphs and charts, or use paper and pen to log readings. Personal preference is Paramount. For the task at hand, either method will yield useful data and trends. |
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08-27-17, 10:12 PM | #26 |
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This seems pretty nice Only thing i have found of it too. lot easier than digging hundreds of feet flat 8 ft deep. My only wonder is . How the heck does the guy keep out the rain water from his hole. The hole in rainy season would fill up with ground water. unless it was closed somehow but that seems like that would make it even more less efficient. And obviously the guy needs to space these things out a good bit. He is basically getting all his useable heat from the ground spacing them less than 2 feet apart ground doesnt give up heat quickly |
08-28-17, 07:44 AM | #27 |
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Ok, so with that guy's earth tube test, he was transferring about 200 Watts with 2 holes. There are about 3500 Watts per ton of refrigeration, so you figure that out. Dozens of holes per ton of capacity.
You ain't me, so you may enjoy digging holes. I don't. You already have a well, so guess what? I recommend the same thing: put your well pump on a solar panel. Your line of thinking is correct with respect to the ground having low heat transfer. It has lots and lots of buffering ability, but not by the pound. As the recirculating ground loop gets larger, the heat transfer ability follows, eventually approaching that of a well or cave. |
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08-28-17, 08:41 AM | #28 | |
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Yeah i dont particularly (like) to dig holes but it gives me a chance to see flaws in my design that someone else may see. And its just set and go until pipe change here so not much work So he is transfering about 8.3 watts per foot with the tubes yea the top 3 ft prob isnt transfering much of any thing. |
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09-02-17, 08:09 AM | #29 | |
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Using a chilled waterfall system the only heat you are adding to the system is a small amount of pumping energy. Excess water gathered by the system only has to be drained away. So if this is more efficient why doesn't FEMA and the military use it? #1 evaporation collected water is clean. #2 it is operating outside they don't need to bring the brine water back down to indoor temperatures. |
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09-04-17, 12:12 AM | #30 |
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You can argue physics or theory all day long about what why how, doesn't hurt my feelings a bit. I done done it already. Due to the low mass flow of recirculating solution, sensible heat transfer indoors is insignificant. The latent transfer component indoors is a partial pressure type of transfer, not a heat gradient type of transfer. Outdoors is a different story. The more solar heat (surface area) that can be fed through the still or regenerator, the stronger the brine solution will end up being fed back indoors. This has been covered in previous threads using closed containers of brine solution as PCM heat storage media. All of the relevant figures remain the same, only the purpose has been changed.
If I did it again, I would probably use a teensy solar fountain pump to recirculate the solution. The outdoor rig I improvised way back when really surprised me in terms of expected versus actual performance. It could have kept a decent size hydroponic system fed with fresh water indefinitely. It looked much like this cross section sketch: My original rig could be made more efficient by containing the liquid solution and heating it in a dedicated solar collector, and by turning the flat bottom into a stepped terrace. Both measures would boost water extraction. To get even more productivity out of the outdoor side, a real regenerator could be fashioned by dumping the hot solar panel brine into an evaporative cooling tower type creation. The hot water would leave through the top with the outdoor air, the strong brine solution would fall to the bottom and be routed indoors. Here's your super simple process chart: It looks like the OP won't be using this method, at least not for now. I'm done talking about it at the moment to keep the discussion moving forward. |
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