Covers for recessed light's - Page 2

S-F · 06-19-12, 05:22 AM

Just remove the cans and install pendant lights. What do you plan to do when a bulb burns out?

eco dude · 06-19-12, 09:59 AM

I have one of those light bulb extension poles when needed to replace. The problem with pendant lights is then I'll have a ring around where the can hole used to be.

Anything else where I can do this totally from the attic?

S-F · 06-19-12, 05:57 PM

If it were my house I'd put in AT IC cans (obvious from all of my comments).

You can make boxes to cover the cans you already have. I will either dig up the previous thread or post full instructions on how to do it. The way most people do it is by making a drywall box and foaming the seams. I have no faith that this will pass the test of time. Honestly, if you plan on keeping the house and you are dead set against getting up there, you should make the boxes out of something much more robust, like plywood.

eco dude · 06-25-12, 11:27 AM

Update... I Picked up 18 IC/AT can's on Friday at box store, and got up early Saturday to begin the replacement. After 3 hrs. and only 3 cans replaced I'm gonna bail on this option. I ran into more problems with beams etc., and just the general rip out process that it really turned into a PITA. Plus, knowing that I had not even attempted to get to the ones that are at the top of my 19' ceiling, and I didn't want to be on a ladder that high up just to get to the trim pieces. Also, since these cans are generally place nearer the edges towards a wall, it means they're in a tighter cramped spot in the attic so working on it was not fun. All together, too many issues with this including my safety, so I'm gonna go with plan B. Will get those Tenmat FF130E Recessed Light Cover, put caulk/foam around it and be done in a hour. I still gotta get everything ready for some blown-in insulation after this, fun!

S-F · 06-25-12, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eco dude

Update... I Picked up 18 IC/AT can's on Friday at box store,

I just started reading this post and my happiness and excitement made me reply immediately! I have only read that first sentence so far. You will be glad of the work you're putting in some day. And that day may be today or tomorrow!

Edit.

Damn! I read the rest of the post. My only advice at this point is to skip the caulk and just use foam, but be sure to do a very good job of sealing everything up. How much do these covers cost? Do you have a link to them? It might be better to make boxes yourself. That way you know it's done right. I don't see how a retrofit product could be made to accomplish this task. How do the wires fit in? The contraption can't be solid. There must be a splice along the entire length of it somewhere. Also the home made boxes will only cost a couple $ each. Good luck. Those damn cans are basically the worst source of air leaks in modern construction. I have measured the speed of air coming from one during a blower door test at over 5 meters / second with an anemometer. That's like a slightly open window.

eco dude · 06-25-12, 05:52 PM

I got "dust bunnies" around the bulbs in the cans so I know air is moving past 'em. AND, since I know I can't insulate around/over them, I'm getting killed there too. I gotta at least get them air tight and covered. I had a home energy test, they did blower door and all that stuff so I know I have problems. This is the covers they use and I didn't want to mess with trying to make my own. Amazon.com: FF130E Recessed Light Cover: Home Improvement. I plan to slit the cover slightly, then fit them over wires or whatever, maybe even a few sheet metal screws, use some foam, and I should be done.

S-F · 06-25-12, 05:55 PM

Fair enough. Those things look pretty safe. Get a real foam gun though. Those Great Stuff cans are preposterous.

Edit:

I'm not going to say Great Stuff cans are useless. Although, I am going to say that they are making their money on an idea and not a product.

gasstingy · 07-09-13, 01:01 PM

In my researching for two pending projects, I came upon this and the other can light insulating threads for my project #2 which is to seal up around my can lights and fix the leaking ducts. I was planning to use the can light covers linked in post #16. But, I'm going to take the advice that S - F gave in both threads and ignore the problem

The attic was initially insulated with open cell foam when we built the house and I added blown cellulose later. I have since decided the blown cellulose was a poor way to spend our money, so I am going to sweep it all into large trash bags and move it out of the attic space and have 6" more open cell foam sprayed in. Instead of trying to seal up the cans, I'll just let them foam up to and over them and I'll trade out the CFL's for LED's. Problem solved.

I'll come back afterward {and after fixing the leaky duct connections} and pour the cellulose over the top of the flexible ductwork. It should be just what the doctor {auditor} ordered.

Now if I can just find a thread for a first flush diverter so I can get the rain barrel the wife wants.....

06-19-12, 09:59 AM	#12
eco dude Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I have one of those light bulb extension poles when needed to replace. The problem with pendant lights is then I'll have a ring around where the can hole used to be. Anything else where I can do this totally from the attic?

06-25-12, 11:27 AM	#14
eco dude Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Update... I Picked up 18 IC/AT can's on Friday at box store, and got up early Saturday to begin the replacement. After 3 hrs. and only 3 cans replaced I'm gonna bail on this option. I ran into more problems with beams etc., and just the general rip out process that it really turned into a PITA. Plus, knowing that I had not even attempted to get to the ones that are at the top of my 19' ceiling, and I didn't want to be on a ladder that high up just to get to the trim pieces. Also, since these cans are generally place nearer the edges towards a wall, it means they're in a tighter cramped spot in the attic so working on it was not fun. All together, too many issues with this including my safety, so I'm gonna go with plan B. Will get those Tenmat FF130E Recessed Light Cover, put caulk/foam around it and be done in a hour. I still gotta get everything ready for some blown-in insulation after this, fun!

06-25-12, 05:52 PM	#16
eco dude Helper EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I got "dust bunnies" around the bulbs in the cans so I know air is moving past 'em. AND, since I know I can't insulate around/over them, I'm getting killed there too. I gotta at least get them air tight and covered. I had a home energy test, they did blower door and all that stuff so I know I have problems. This is the covers they use and I didn't want to mess with trying to make my own. Amazon.com: FF130E Recessed Light Cover: Home Improvement. I plan to slit the cover slightly, then fit them over wires or whatever, maybe even a few sheet metal screws, use some foam, and I should be done.

07-09-13, 01:01 PM	#18
gasstingy Journeyman EcoRenovator Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Arab, AL Posts: 491 Thanks: 109 Thanked 49 Times in 43 Posts	In my researching for two pending projects, I came upon this and the other can light insulating threads for my project #2 which is to seal up around my can lights and fix the leaking ducts. I was planning to use the can light covers linked in post #16. But, I'm going to take the advice that S - F gave in both threads and ignore the problem The attic was initially insulated with open cell foam when we built the house and I added blown cellulose later. I have since decided the blown cellulose was a poor way to spend our money, so I am going to sweep it all into large trash bags and move it out of the attic space and have 6" more open cell foam sprayed in. Instead of trying to seal up the cans, I'll just let them foam up to and over them and I'll trade out the CFL's for LED's. Problem solved. I'll come back afterward {and after fixing the leaky duct connections} and pour the cellulose over the top of the flexible ductwork. It should be just what the doctor {auditor} ordered. Now if I can just find a thread for a first flush diverter so I can get the rain barrel the wife wants.....