11-12-10, 09:25 AM | #11 |
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When I installed my pipe insulation I was shocked how warm they were, both the hot and cold lines.
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11-12-10, 11:39 AM | #12 |
Apprentice EcoRenovator
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I believe they are ball-check valves. The ball in the cold side floats and the ball in the hot side sinks. When there's no water flow the balls are against their seats and block convection currents from occuring. When you open a faucet the water flow pushes the balls off the seats.
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11-12-10, 12:12 PM | #13 | |
Lex Parsimoniae
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Quote:
Hot Water Heater Replacement Parts - Heat Traps and Pressure Relief Valves But, I kinda like the loops, since they have no moving parts.. And should not restrict the flow at all. If you ever need to solder on copper down the line, you can blow compressed air, into the pipe and push the extra water back to a low point (like the water heater). I hate trying to solder copper pipe, when there is water a few feet away, that's cooling off the pipe and the causing cold-solder joints. If you have a check valve installed, it's not going to allow for easy draining back into the tank.. |
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11-12-10, 12:32 PM | #14 |
Master EcoRenovator
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Any suggestions on how to fit a tempering valve into this? I'm thinking you would want it above the heat trap for the hot and below the one for the cold?
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11-12-10, 12:54 PM | #15 | |
Lex Parsimoniae
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Quote:
If not, you have to heat up all the pipe up to the mixer, before it can start mixing.. My kit is sitting downstairs, collecting dust.. |
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11-12-10, 01:05 PM | #16 |
Master EcoRenovator
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I agree close is better but I'm wondering if the mixer will allow much heating of the cold pipe when water isn't running since the hot and cold are physically connected right there.
With the heat trap above the cold connection and below the hot connection then at worst it's heating the cold below the trap with hot that was already out and into the pipes above the trap. this may be tricky to make into a small package to keep close to the tank though. |
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