Woodstove for winter - Page 2

toyobug · 11-22-08, 11:24 AM

cool looking stove! I like the spider web design.

iamgeo · 11-23-10, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Behind the stove, I have a stack of bricks (you can see three of them in the photo) which are back from the stove about six inches. These suck up the radiant heat the shoots off the back of the stove.

Will just any type of bricks do?

bennelson · 11-23-10, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyobug

... I like the spider web design.

Those are actual spider webs. I should dust more often!

Kidding aside, I really like the design, especially that it is a closed stove (far more efficient than an open fireplace!) but you still get to see the flames.

Any type of bricks will do fine. All I am looking for is MASS. Basically, anything dense/heavy can absorb more heat than lighter materials. (On the other hand, insulation tends to be very light-weight materials, with trapped pockets of air.)

All I wanted to do was add some mass to the system. Steel drums of water behind the stove could have worked too, but I didn't have room for that.

Water is GREAT for absorbing heat. I have still been toying with adding some mass in the form of water, haven't quite figured out the best way to do it yet.

iamgeo · 11-23-10, 11:06 AM

As you can see I do not have a heatshield on the walls behind the wood stove. The walls would get really hot, so hot I was afraid of spontaneous combustion.

Did some googling and read about using cement backer board spaced 1 inch off the wall with ceramic electricity insulators. So I went to Lowes and purchased two 4X8 sheets of 3/8 thick cement board.

Unfortunately I do not have any pics of the uncovered cement board.
After putting up the cement board there was very little heat getting to the drywall behind it. Although the cement board itself was getting really hot.
I have the techshield radiant barrier roof decking on my house. You know, it has "tin foil" on the attic side of the roof decking. It reduces the incoming heat radiating into the attic by about 95% if I am not mistaken.
Anyway, I figured I would put tinfoil on the cement board. I did just one strip, 18 inches wide, from top to bottom. Wow, under the tinfoil there was no heat getting to the cement board.
As you can see I covered the entire heatshield with it.
We used Dap Contact Cement to stick the tinfoil to the board.
Really high VOC's. Took 4 days for the fumes to go away.
The tinfoil is cool to the touch and is reflecting all the heat into the living space. The cement board also stays cool.

I know, I know, what about the floor??? Will be getting to that soon. I still have not finished with laying my floor.

I am installing cork flooring. The Van Gogh series that I purchased from Lumber Liquidators.

bennelson · 11-23-10, 11:19 AM

Love the cork floor!

That is one heck of a wall reflector! Must bounce a LOT of heat back to the middle of the room.

My stove is on the middle of a wall, and the bricks are right behind it, blocking it from the wall.

I wouldn't worry too much about the floor. Yes, heat rises, and radiant heat goes all directions, but the ash in the bottom of the stove will cut the heat going downward by a lot.

My stove also has a sheet metal heat deflector below the stove, between the legs. Even a box stove (with no legs) is typically on a sheet of heat resistant material to protect the floor.

Ryland · 11-24-10, 11:27 AM

Pine is really hard to burn, it takes longer then other woods to dry out and has less energy in it so it burns cooler, combine this with the high amount of pitch in it and you end up with a coating of tar in your chimney! last year we cleaned a chimney that took less then two months to fill with tar and inch and a half thick layer of thick black crust, the guy was really lucky that it never started on fire, instead it blocked his chimney up so much that his house filled full of smoke.
If you burn any pine at all clean and inspect your chimney once a year! if you burn nice dry hard wood like ben has and you burn it hot you might never need to clean your chimney, I inspect my parents chimney every year or so and they heat only with wood and their chimney I think is going on 10 years without a cleaning, a bit of ash and soot at the bottom but that's it.

Blue Fox · 12-02-10, 02:48 PM

Love the old looking stove - the ones with the glass window are the only ones CSA approved - you won't be covered by insurance if you have any other (and the worst thing happens - a house fire) I made the mistake of getting what I thought was a CSA approved airtight wood burning stove, but apparently, because of the legs on this one it's not actually approved for use in a mobile home. Not sure why that should make a difference - I love it anyway, and the legs are what makes it!

Bracken sure likes the warmth of the bricks!

iamgeo · 12-30-10, 10:28 PM

Has anybody made newspaper logs?
Whether by hand or using a newspaper log roller?

strider3700 · 12-31-10, 12:01 AM

No but I have a newspaper roller for just that purpose sitting in my carport. It came from my grandpas house and he got it from either my great grandma or great great grandma. I wasn't sure how effective it would be so I've never tried it.

Blue Fox · 12-31-10, 10:15 AM

That would be a fun project, Strider! Can you do some and take pics?

11-23-10, 11:06 AM	#14
iamgeo Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lakehills, Tx Posts: 168 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts	As you can see I do not have a heatshield on the walls behind the wood stove. The walls would get really hot, so hot I was afraid of spontaneous combustion. Did some googling and read about using cement backer board spaced 1 inch off the wall with ceramic electricity insulators. So I went to Lowes and purchased two 4X8 sheets of 3/8 thick cement board. Unfortunately I do not have any pics of the uncovered cement board. After putting up the cement board there was very little heat getting to the drywall behind it. Although the cement board itself was getting really hot. I have the techshield radiant barrier roof decking on my house. You know, it has "tin foil" on the attic side of the roof decking. It reduces the incoming heat radiating into the attic by about 95% if I am not mistaken. Anyway, I figured I would put tinfoil on the cement board. I did just one strip, 18 inches wide, from top to bottom. Wow, under the tinfoil there was no heat getting to the cement board. As you can see I covered the entire heatshield with it. We used Dap Contact Cement to stick the tinfoil to the board. Really high VOC's. Took 4 days for the fumes to go away. The tinfoil is cool to the touch and is reflecting all the heat into the living space. The cement board also stays cool. I know, I know, what about the floor??? Will be getting to that soon. I still have not finished with laying my floor. I am installing cork flooring. The Van Gogh series that I purchased from Lumber Liquidators. Last edited by iamgeo; 11-23-10 at 11:08 AM..

11-23-10, 11:19 AM	#15
bennelson Home-Wrecker Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: SE Wisconsin Posts: 546 Thanks: 3 Thanked 165 Times in 96 Posts	Love the cork floor! That is one heck of a wall reflector! Must bounce a LOT of heat back to the middle of the room. My stove is on the middle of a wall, and the bricks are right behind it, blocking it from the wall. I wouldn't worry too much about the floor. Yes, heat rises, and radiant heat goes all directions, but the ash in the bottom of the stove will cut the heat going downward by a lot. My stove also has a sheet metal heat deflector below the stove, between the legs. Even a box stove (with no legs) is typically on a sheet of heat resistant material to protect the floor. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

12-02-10, 02:48 PM	#17
Blue Fox Lurking Renovator Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 16 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Love the old looking stove - the ones with the glass window are the only ones CSA approved - you won't be covered by insurance if you have any other (and the worst thing happens - a house fire) I made the mistake of getting what I thought was a CSA approved airtight wood burning stove, but apparently, because of the legs on this one it's not actually approved for use in a mobile home. Not sure why that should make a difference - I love it anyway, and the legs are what makes it! Bracken sure likes the warmth of the bricks! Attached Thumbnails

12-31-10, 10:15 AM	#20
Blue Fox Lurking Renovator Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 16 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	That would be a fun project, Strider! Can you do some and take pics? Last edited by Blue Fox; 12-31-10 at 10:20 AM..

11-22-08, 11:24 AM	#11
toyobug avid DIY'r Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: MS. Gulf Coast Posts: 154 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	cool looking stove! I like the spider web design.

11-24-10, 11:27 AM	#16
Ryland Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Western Wisconsin. Posts: 913 Thanks: 127 Thanked 82 Times in 71 Posts	Pine is really hard to burn, it takes longer then other woods to dry out and has less energy in it so it burns cooler, combine this with the high amount of pitch in it and you end up with a coating of tar in your chimney! last year we cleaned a chimney that took less then two months to fill with tar and inch and a half thick layer of thick black crust, the guy was really lucky that it never started on fire, instead it blocked his chimney up so much that his house filled full of smoke. If you burn any pine at all clean and inspect your chimney once a year! if you burn nice dry hard wood like ben has and you burn it hot you might never need to clean your chimney, I inspect my parents chimney every year or so and they heat only with wood and their chimney I think is going on 10 years without a cleaning, a bit of ash and soot at the bottom but that's it.

12-30-10, 10:28 PM	#18
iamgeo Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lakehills, Tx Posts: 168 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts	Has anybody made newspaper logs? Whether by hand or using a newspaper log roller?

12-31-10, 12:01 AM	#19
strider3700 Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Vancouver Island BC Posts: 745 Thanks: 23 Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts	No but I have a newspaper roller for just that purpose sitting in my carport. It came from my grandpas house and he got it from either my great grandma or great great grandma. I wasn't sure how effective it would be so I've never tried it.