Questions about DIY Install of Mini-Splits

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by nokiasixteth

Yeah. I had one that the end got cut off. So i just used it. Works good.

I used a piece of automotive heater hose for part of my condensate drain .

You said you had a leak ? The drain ?

God bless
Wyr

[nokiasixteth]

Yep. I had forgot to cut the hose . Turned on the ac. hour or so later i heard water drip sounds went outside hose had a kink not lettin out the water so it backed up. I cut it shorter so it couldnt get a kink. Been workin perfect since.

[Xringer]

When I installed Sanyo #1, I was worried about the drip hose.
The Hole-in-the-wall was a tight fit, so I didn't know if there might be a kink in the condensate hose..
So, I tried blowing air into the end of the hose.. (Yes, with my very own lungs).

The air flow seemed VERY slow.. So, I had to do a run-test on the first hot spring day..
No water dripped down the wall.. And, water was flowing out the end of the hose!
No Kink!!

[nokiasixteth]

Originally Posted by Xringer

When I installed Sanyo #1, I was worried about the drip hose.
The Hole-in-the-wall was a tight fit, so I didn't know if there might be a kink in the condensate hose..
So, I tried blowing air into the end of the hose.. (Yes, with my very own lungs).

The air flow seemed VERY slow.. So, I had to do a run-test on the first hot spring day..
No water dripped down the wall.. And, water was flowing out the end of the hose!
No Kink!!

Mine prob had no air flow . The kink was down at the ground when i cut it water poured out the hose.. I figured that was just the problem. Ac has been on quite a lot . Until today . Now the heater is back on. The 1 ton of air cools my whole house does a lot better than expected.

[pinballlooking]

Originally Posted by nokiasixteth

Mine prob had no air flow . The kink was down at the ground when i cut it water poured out the hose.. I figured that was just the problem. Ac has been on quite a lot . Until today . Now the heater is back on. The 1 ton of air cools my whole house does a lot better than expected.

That's great it is cooling the whole house. How many square foot is it cooling?

[nokiasixteth]

1050 square ft.

[buffalobillpatrick]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister

When a conventional compressor ( do not know about the inverter compressors ) , the initial amp draw is the LRA . For that instance , the rotor is not turning . As the rotor starts revolving , it produces counter - EMF in the field coil / coils , which has opposite polarity to the applied voltage / current . This starts to reduce the total amp draw of the compressor motor . This is for AC motors .

The electrical system must " hold in there " at each start .

I always size electrical for max fuse / max HVAC circuit breaker . On the equipment label name plate . That is all I need to know . I never look at LRA . This always works w/o call backs . As long as nothing is shorted , burned up , locked down , etc. in the equipment .

One possible exception is on conventional system ( probably not applicable on mini splits ) is when the home owner has a habit of diddling with the tstat . This can cause the compressor to shut off & quickly turn back on , forcing the compressor to try to start against high head pressure . In this case , I recommend a 5 - 7 minute solid state time delay relay in the 24 VAC coil circuit of the condenser contactor .

God bless
Wyr

I don't have " name plate" compressor LRA=64A, RLA=13.4A
What size breaker would be correct ??
I could also add a Time delay Fuse of 15A ??

[NiHaoMike]

Use a 20A breaker and a current sensor.

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by buffalobillpatrick

I don't have " name plate" compressor LRA=64A, RLA=13.4A
What size breaker would be correct ??
I could also add a Time delay Fuse of 15A ??

At the very least 13.4 amps * 1.25 = 16.75 amps -> # 12 wire and 20 amp time delay fuse . If you need to add in condenser fam figure it the same and add the product to the 16.75 amps .

The 125% is for continuous duty .

God bless
Wyr

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by nokiasixteth

I copied this from one of your post back .

(AC Hacker) quote

There is a LRA rating of the compressor. LRA is an abbreviation of Locked Rotor Amps. It refers to the worst case of the compressor when the rotor is frozen and there is power to the the compressor. In this case, the breaker MUST NOT be rated higher than the LRA. The breaker also needs to be high enough to allow normal operation and start-up current peaks. Your instructions will make this simple for you by specifying the proper breaker rating. Don't use this breaker for anything other than you heat pump.

Mine says the locked rotar is 10amps . And says max fuse 15 amps . So do i need a 10 amp breaker ? Mine is the 1200 btu unit.

http://www.kozykool.com/wp-content/u...er-12-36-2.pdf
=====================================
Found answer to the vac pump.

https://www.google.com/search?source...I7TSNA_enUS565
According to xringer

The name plate on the outdoor unit should list Minimum Circuit Ampacity and Maximum Over-current Device .

We try to use the Maximum Over-current info to size the wire and the fuses / circuit breaker . To avoid nuisance tripping & call backs . For all HVAC equipment .

You also do not have to worry about LRA or the phase of the moon .

God bless
Wyr