Mowing faster - Page 3

Elcam84 · 07-20-20, 07:40 PM

Will be interested to hear how they hold up. I don't bother sharpening since the sand eats them for breakfast anyway.

FYI the 5 lobe star on the craftsman and the husky are the same as they are both made by AYP. AYP was purchased by Husky. Unfortunately their line of mowers has lost allot of market since then.

Sears bought mowers from AYP and MTD. The AYP ones were the higher end models. AYP was bigger in the riding mower line at sears than the push mower line.

The 6 lobe blades are MTD. MTD riding mowers are more plentiful now however bulk blades are still cheaper for the AYP/Husky mowers. These are the ones I am going to order for mine. Well I was going to put a link in but the web link button in the UBB here doesn't work. It just dumps the whole link in instead of making a highlight able link.

I'm going to end up having to get a bagger for my mower since I am getting tif 419 bermuda to grow and it's so far the best growing grass I have ever tried but you can't mulch it as it is not good for the grass.
The tif is a nice dark green thick and soft doesn't need much water or fertilizer and is very heat tolerant. I am mowing it a little bit high at 1.5" but just because it's been over 100* every day. It grows better at about half an inch. If you let it get tall it won't spread and will be thin and spindly.

oil pan 4 · 07-24-20, 09:29 PM

First impression is these blades are worth it.
They are the heaviest I have tried to date, I have ordered stuff from online, bought from the local mower shops, ect.
The "stay sharp secret" is non-homogeneous chromium carbide granules adhering to the under side of the blade.

oil pan 4 · 06-17-21, 01:35 AM

Been using the laser edge dot com blades for almost a year. Yeah they rule in abrasive soil that wears normal steel blades blunt after a several hours of use.

oil pan 4 · 08-09-21, 02:40 PM

I got a craftsman T2400, 46 inch, 19hp single cylinder. It was a pile of parts probably about 6 years old, barely any hours. Still had the factory oil, not even blacked out and had oil easy change attachment that never had been wet with oil. I put the standard slingblade pipe nipple and elbow oil drain on there.
Well I got it all together and just needed blades, I got cheap lowes blades, but I ran out of daylight so I might return them and get some mower shop blades.
It doesn't appear that fisher barton makes any approximately 23 inch "eversharp" blade. I would even go so far as taking a regular 5/8 inch hole and punch out the star pattern by hand. But I guess 2 blade, 46 inch deck mowers aren't "commercial enough" for them to bother with.
The only reason I got eversharp blades for my little 42 inch mower was because husky makes a 60 inch commercial mower that uses 21 inch star hole blades.

oil pan 4 · 08-30-21, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecomodded

Im wondering,
if you increase the blade rotation speed with a larger pulley or gear if it would give a similar effect as slowing down the mowers drive speed

Well I am going to try increasing the blade speed.
Turns out the old smaller 42 inch deck pulleys will fit on the 46 inch deck spindles. So I'll be replacing 6.25 inch pulleys with 5 and 3/16.
Stock is right about a 1:1 ratio. Now they will be over driven to about 4,000 rpm, about a what, 15% over drive? That required a 5 inch shorter belt. Everything is ready to go for the test tomorrow.
Will it work or will it just chew up belts?

As an alternative or maybe even an upgrade to the fisher barton eversharp blades there are blades made by meg-mo they are miniaturized 4 blade "bush hogs" because the blades pivot and don't have to be flexible to absorb impacts so they are really hard and really high alloy.
They don't stock any star pattern blades but they say they will make anything.

pinballlooking · 08-31-21, 11:54 AM

That sounds like a decent improvement.

Elcam84 · 09-03-21, 05:40 PM

I would be more worried about belt slippage which is a common issue on homeowner mowers since they are made to be more forgiving.

oil pan 4 · 09-20-21, 02:05 AM

Yep definitely getting accelerated blade ware. But dang it cuts good.
I went with a 100 inch belt. A 4L101 gets real loose after a while. A 4L100 is almost too tight at first, like the blades don't want to stop till I break the new 100 inch belt in.
Tractor supply had a 5L100 and it wouldn't fit at all. But I think a longer 5L would work.

I was over on bitog and it looks like the briggs 19hp single cylinder is known for blowing head gaskets. So that could suck. I'm giving the engine a few minutes of idle warm up, then throttle up and engaging blades probably around 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes before going full throttle.
Then for shutdown I let it idle no load for 2 or 3 minutes.

oil pan 4 · 10-18-22, 01:45 PM

This winter my project is going to be to take warn blades, not warn out, build them up with regular old L56 rod, homogenize the weld to the base metal, forge them into shape and heat treat them. If I can remember what they're called, buy some of the hard facing brazing rods if I can remember what they're called. They have a weird name.

dguzzi · 10-25-22, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

This winter my project is going to be to take warn blades, not warn out, build them up with regular old L56 rod, homogenize the weld to the base metal, forge them into shape and heat treat them. If I can remember what they're called, buy some of the hard facing brazing rods if I can remember what they're called. They have a weird name.

We had a stick welder and some black colored rods (I think nickel) that would work for that. I have a ice chisel (used for other stuff too) that I welded onto the edge. Its been working for 20 years! I think on a mower blade it wouldn't last that long, but it was easy and no forging and heat treating.

Let us know how it works out.

07-24-20, 09:29 PM	#22
oil pan 4 Land owner Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: NM Posts: 1,026 Thanks: 12 Thanked 127 Times in 107 Posts	First impression is these blades are worth it. They are the heaviest I have tried to date, I have ordered stuff from online, bought from the local mower shops, ect. The "stay sharp secret" is non-homogeneous chromium carbide granules adhering to the under side of the blade. Last edited by oil pan 4; 07-24-20 at 10:31 PM..

08-31-21, 11:54 AM	#26
pinballlooking Super Moderator Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: SC Posts: 2,923 Thanks: 172 Thanked 564 Times in 463 Posts	That sounds like a decent improvement. __________________ Current project Aquaponics system , Passive Solar Greenhouse build To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Solar Install 12.5 Kwh- To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Mini Split installs - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. EV Chevy Volt - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-20-20, 07:40 PM	#21
Elcam84 Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: TX Posts: 275 Thanks: 2 Thanked 31 Times in 24 Posts	Will be interested to hear how they hold up. I don't bother sharpening since the sand eats them for breakfast anyway. FYI the 5 lobe star on the craftsman and the husky are the same as they are both made by AYP. AYP was purchased by Husky. Unfortunately their line of mowers has lost allot of market since then. Sears bought mowers from AYP and MTD. The AYP ones were the higher end models. AYP was bigger in the riding mower line at sears than the push mower line. The 6 lobe blades are MTD. MTD riding mowers are more plentiful now however bulk blades are still cheaper for the AYP/Husky mowers. These are the ones I am going to order for mine. Well I was going to put a link in but the web link button in the UBB here doesn't work. It just dumps the whole link in instead of making a highlight able link. I'm going to end up having to get a bagger for my mower since I am getting tif 419 bermuda to grow and it's so far the best growing grass I have ever tried but you can't mulch it as it is not good for the grass. The tif is a nice dark green thick and soft doesn't need much water or fertilizer and is very heat tolerant. I am mowing it a little bit high at 1.5" but just because it's been over 100* every day. It grows better at about half an inch. If you let it get tall it won't spread and will be thin and spindly.

06-17-21, 01:35 AM	#23
oil pan 4 Land owner Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: NM Posts: 1,026 Thanks: 12 Thanked 127 Times in 107 Posts	Been using the laser edge dot com blades for almost a year. Yeah they rule in abrasive soil that wears normal steel blades blunt after a several hours of use.

08-09-21, 02:40 PM	#24
oil pan 4 Land owner Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: NM Posts: 1,026 Thanks: 12 Thanked 127 Times in 107 Posts	I got a craftsman T2400, 46 inch, 19hp single cylinder. It was a pile of parts probably about 6 years old, barely any hours. Still had the factory oil, not even blacked out and had oil easy change attachment that never had been wet with oil. I put the standard slingblade pipe nipple and elbow oil drain on there. Well I got it all together and just needed blades, I got cheap lowes blades, but I ran out of daylight so I might return them and get some mower shop blades. It doesn't appear that fisher barton makes any approximately 23 inch "eversharp" blade. I would even go so far as taking a regular 5/8 inch hole and punch out the star pattern by hand. But I guess 2 blade, 46 inch deck mowers aren't "commercial enough" for them to bother with. The only reason I got eversharp blades for my little 42 inch mower was because husky makes a 60 inch commercial mower that uses 21 inch star hole blades.

09-03-21, 05:40 PM	#27
Elcam84 Apprentice EcoRenovator Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: TX Posts: 275 Thanks: 2 Thanked 31 Times in 24 Posts	I would be more worried about belt slippage which is a common issue on homeowner mowers since they are made to be more forgiving.

09-20-21, 02:05 AM	#28
oil pan 4 Land owner Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: NM Posts: 1,026 Thanks: 12 Thanked 127 Times in 107 Posts	Yep definitely getting accelerated blade ware. But dang it cuts good. I went with a 100 inch belt. A 4L101 gets real loose after a while. A 4L100 is almost too tight at first, like the blades don't want to stop till I break the new 100 inch belt in. Tractor supply had a 5L100 and it wouldn't fit at all. But I think a longer 5L would work. I was over on bitog and it looks like the briggs 19hp single cylinder is known for blowing head gaskets. So that could suck. I'm giving the engine a few minutes of idle warm up, then throttle up and engaging blades probably around 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes before going full throttle. Then for shutdown I let it idle no load for 2 or 3 minutes.

10-18-22, 01:45 PM	#29
oil pan 4 Land owner Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: NM Posts: 1,026 Thanks: 12 Thanked 127 Times in 107 Posts	This winter my project is going to be to take warn blades, not warn out, build them up with regular old L56 rod, homogenize the weld to the base metal, forge them into shape and heat treat them. If I can remember what they're called, buy some of the hard facing brazing rods if I can remember what they're called. They have a weird name.