06-04-11, 11:39 AM | #31 |
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Wouldn't your attic be the perfect place for the pre-heat tank?
Maybe a duplicate differential controller that looked at attic temp and tank temp and could turn on a radiator fan an a small circulation pump when tank temp fell below attic temp... -AC_Hacker
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06-04-11, 02:57 PM | #32 |
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Daox and I are both in Wisconsin where we can see negative 20F temps, solar hot water panels on the roof are going to capture that heat before it gets to the attic, keeping the attic cooler and making use of that heat in a more direct and focused way.
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06-10-11, 11:27 AM | #33 |
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Well, I just checked my tracking number this morning. The water heater is on the delivery truck. I was really hoping I'd have it before the weekend so I could install it over the weekend. The puddle is growing bigger and I've cleaned it up a few times with the shop vac. I'm not sure how much longer she'll hold capt'n.
Edit: It looks like I totally forgot to mention that I did go with the Stiebel Eltron DHC-E 10 electric tankless water heater. It turned out to be $275 shipped. It should be just enough to get us by until the solar panels are installed. Its also pretty small (14"x8"x4"), and will be easy to tuck away upstairs when I get the boiler setup. It even looks pretty cool.
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06-11-11, 08:51 AM | #34 |
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I came home to a nice very small package last night.
Hooking up the water heater will likely be a breeze. There are really only 3 things to hook up, the cold water inlet, hot water outlet, and the electrical. It'll probably take me more time to make a mount for it than to actually hook it up. Here are some pics. Soda can added for scale. And we pop the cover open to see the guts. Really not too much in there, just the heating element and control board and a few sensors.
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06-11-11, 01:45 PM | #35 |
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Wow, that could easily mount right under the kitchen sink...
-AC_Hacker
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06-11-11, 09:41 PM | #36 |
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Yeah, this is Stiebel's smaller line, its actually supposed to be a point of use water heater, not a whole house water heater.
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06-12-11, 10:15 AM | #37 |
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Well, the install went pretty smoothly. The only hang up were a couple of leaky joints, nothing a wrench couldn't fix though.
Here is what I started with. Here is the puddle, notice the glassy reflection of the bags in the background, all wet. I had cleaned it up several times already too. This board right in back of the water heater holds my hydronic heating pump, control, gauges, etc. I figured I would just add on to it for mounting the water heater. With the extension added, two screws hold the water heater to the board. The wire is some pretty beefy 8-2 wire. I had to add a 50A breaker to the electric panel as well. Then, I installed the ball valves, and servicing valves (for flushing the water heater). The last thing to do was connect the PEX lines which was a very short run. I ended up getting one of the cinch crimping tools that AC Hacker suggested some other thread. It really worked nicely. After it was all done I decided to clean up and test it out. The water temperature is absolutely perfect. I'm glad I didn't go with the next size up.
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06-13-11, 07:06 PM | #38 |
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Tim,
How much did the electric unit cost? That is almost ideal for my church to use; since we only use a very small amount of hot water once in a while. On the gas units, I'm told that in Australia, they have a solution for the ignition that does need any external electricity source: a small impeller is installed on the intake water line, which spins a small generator as soon as the water is turned on -- and the electricity generated ignites the gas, and you get instant hot water... Pretty slick, I'd say. |
06-14-11, 08:00 AM | #39 |
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The unit was $275 shipped to me. However, you can get away much cheaper if you have a constant inlet water temperature. Mine has an outlet temperature sensor so it always delivers X temperature water. If you go with the unit that just heats the water with X amount of power, you can save about $100.
You probably know, but you also really need to be careful about getting info to size the unit properly. This means getting the inlet water temperature, and figuring out how much flow the heater is going to need to provide for.
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06-18-11, 08:09 AM | #40 |
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Thanks -- we will probably be using these at my Quaker Meeting. Perfect setup for this, really.
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