06-23-11, 09:29 AM | #31 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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I think the best benefit of Ductless is the lack of losses.
Sheet metal ducts that starts off at the wrong temperature, is going to be heated (or cooled) when the air flows. If the ambient temperature outside the sheet metal ducts are difference than what's inside the ducts, there will be losses. Insulation of the ducts works, but the total cost in labor (and parts) makes it undesirable in many cases. (Like retrofits). |
06-23-11, 10:36 AM | #32 |
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Yes, duct losses can waste a dramatic portion of energy spent heating and cooling; I recall reading numbers around 20-30%. It is highly recommended to place all ductwork within the conditioned envelope of your home, then you only need to worry about air distribution. That was a major reason I chose to build a conditioned crawlspace.
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06-23-11, 11:00 AM | #33 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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That's a great idea. I wish my basement wasn't such a big geothermal slab..
If I wasn't so close to my expiration date, I would insulate the living daylights out of that dank basement! On the plus side, it's mighty cool down there on a hot summer day.. |
06-23-11, 05:14 PM | #34 |
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Do not go gentle into that good night.
Renovate, renovate against the dying of the light. -AC
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02-16-12, 06:32 AM | #35 | |
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Quote:
<edit>I have no idea how this post wound up tacked to this thread! Last edited by BradC; 02-16-12 at 06:42 AM.. Reason: Puzzling post location |
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03-13-12, 07:00 AM | #36 |
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Well, it appears I neglected finishing documentation of my installation in this thread.
I did finish the installation, and the rest of the home, and we finally moved in at the beginning of the year. The system has been working flawlessly. I installed a washable electrostatic filter in the larger 20x25 return, and the airflow is still good - so that saves a little on filter costs. I haven't tried one in the 14x20 return, as I'm worried it may be too constrictive for the blower. The system has kept us warm throughout this winter, though it hasn't been terribly cold this season. I keep the tstats around 72/74. The past two months our electric bill is roughly 38 kWh/day for everything. I don't have a meter to only read the HVAC electric consumption. I suspect the electric resistance water heater is a big chunk of that usage. All appliances are electric. |
03-13-12, 08:32 AM | #37 |
Lex Parsimoniae
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Congrads on your new home and it's heating system!
If you are interested in monitoring just your HP, you might want to try a TED.
The probes on my TED are currently measuring the power used by both my Sanyos. If you aren't interested in keeping computer files of your power use, the less expensive models (TED Model 1001) should work okay. I got the link+software and don't use it much. The TED saves monthly data for at least a year. It's easy to scroll the data and write it down, by hand.. Which TED works for you? The winter has been mild here also. The two Sanyos have used $90 to $100 a month when it was pretty cold. (@ $0.1661 per kWh).
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03-13-12, 09:09 AM | #38 |
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That's funny, the TED logo is almost identical to that of TED: Ideas worth spreading
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06-10-12, 11:04 PM | #39 |
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06-11-12, 09:51 AM | #40 | |
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Quote:
I too have 12 oz paint ball bottles for welding. I picked then up at a sporting goods store, the store even refills them for me, by weight not pressure. Can you explain a little more... Paint bottles come with CO2, but you talk about using nitrogen. Can you link to the adapters or pressure regulator you used to pressurize system, when Co2 bottles have a pressure of 900 psi. What gas did you use and how did you regulate the pressure? My bottles have needle valves and no regulator. Vern
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