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Old 11-29-10, 06:09 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Daox View Post
After doing a bit more reading I'm more inclined to do as you originally suggested and line the inside with a fire brick. This would insulate the fire box and make it burn hotter. Then, I could pull all of the heat out of the flue instead of trying to steal it from the fire box?
You will still get alot of heat from the fire box walls but you will also get another 10+ years out of the fire box because you will not be getting the steel red hot.
Just like the heat traps on a hot water heater you want a heat trap of sorts on your wood stove and as long as the air intake is lower then the lowest point in the chimney you should not get a back draft.
If you look at the natural convection in the barrel stove the heat is going to rise and rise and rise until it's up the chimney and out of the building, if the upper barrel had the chimney leave the lower part instead of the upper part of the barrel you would get more heat out of it and because it's relatively sealed the chimney will still pull a draft with the still warm smoke going up it.
The only way you are going to not have a draft is if there is a blockage, if the smoke cools to the point that it's close to the out door temp or you have an extreme low pressure weather system.
Masonry mass stoves can cool the smoke to the point that it is hardly warm, maybe 120F and it still drafts well, their key tho is burning an extremely hot fire, small dry wood that burns up within an hour or two, heat up the mass and that mass stays warm for 12-24 hours.
Ryland is offline   Reply With Quote