@ AC_Hacker:
These ventilating fans are:
Panasonic FV-08VQ5, 80cfm, approx. 0.3sones, around 13 watts@120VAC.
Panasonic FV-11VQ5, 120cfm, approx. 0.3sones, around 20watts@120VAC.
The 80cfm is "always on" per housing code here: to expel stale air and pollutants to the outside. Previous one (the one that I removed) was rated 80cfm @ 130Watts, made by Broan/Nutone and it's noisy as hell.
the 120cfm is for my master bathroom (next to the master bathroom) where there exists a standup shower stall + a small jacuzzi kinda deal. Previously, it was a 50cfm crappy Broan that doesn't vent moisture at all.
the 120cfm is hooked up to a moisture detection switch with timer built-in (30mins).
Because of the most recent housing code changes where houses are supposedly built to have a much higher thermal efficiency (double-glazed windows, >R40 on the attic, thicker walls with proper insulations, etc.), thus it calls for an "always-on" ventilating fan to be running 24/7/365 on the highest part of the house (in my case: the 2nd bathroom on the upper level of our 2-storey house).
There's a fresh air inlet (mandatory, per housing code requirements) in the lower section of the building. In my case: it was routed into the boiler(hot water storage heater + hydronic radiant floor heating boiler) room where it needs it the most. It also gently serves to warm up the incoming air (somewhat) during winter months but not ideal.
Because of the constant running of the 80cfm ventilating fan esp. during winter months where it also "draws" the heated air away from the house (heat loss), I like to add an ERV to the house on the 2nd floor ceiling and configure it so that it will rotate between the ERV (when it's running, this will turn off the 80cfm fan and vice-versa) and the ventilating fan.
I know this is not ideal but to strike a balance between my family's health and comfort and energy efficiency during winter months.
Hope that helps (in explaining what I'm trying to achieve here).
Q.
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