Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ
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The boron dust is horrible, as well, and the stuff is still inflammable (we used it to start a fire to dry ourselves out after it rained while we were still tearing down... after using the rain to clean the cellulose dust off our skin, because once you've been in it long enough, it does in fact itch.)
Soy foam is a great product... except for when it hardens up, and becomes a solid mass that covers everything, and needs to be carved to get where you need to go... and then it doesn't even always carve out in one piece, you often get "popcorn" from it.
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Christ,
sorry to hear of your troubles, I've only worked these 2 jobs
using new, clean and fresh material.
I blew the cellulose on the wall of my shop, and then later welded
pipe supports onto the steel columns. I wire brushed off the glued
on cellulose around it, but still charred some in place.
It startled me to be smoking (after I lifted my helmet) , but a quick brush
with my hand had it out. I let some more "go" and it quickly went out
on it's own.
Before I started building my equipment, I tested the material myself
with a torch, from underneath (simulating real conditions) and
even with material that was left out in the rain for 6 months
(looked like paper mache') I could not discern any change in the
fire suppression action.
I tested samples of foam from a neighbors tear out (was applied 1 year before, and was the newer 1 lb foam) and I did not like the results I was getting. Both in fire suppression, and liberated smoke.
I did note that, in talking with my local cellulose manuf. they add more
fire retardent than the suppliers to Lowes and Home Depot.
If you like foam, here's a hint to get the juices flowing.....
Styrofoam, packing peanuts included, can be stuck with pva
AKA elmers glue. Meaning, you could blow the material using
the equipment I have built, and by adding the glue/water mix,
have it stick in place (no settling). My local styrofoam supplier
sell's large bags of "regrind" scrap.