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MN Renovator · 05-06-15, 01:51 PM

I meant to say 2x6 framing, that was an error. My headspace was thinking double-stud 2x4 wall framing. For what it's worth, I support the revised building codes that as soon as they are adopted in full requiring R25 with 2x6 construction with the IECC 2015, although some of that code is still draft such as windows requiring a u-value of 0.20 in climate zones 4 or colder which includes Portland. I think these are steps in the right direction, although code minimums as you said are minimums. I hope what I said wasn't included as 'too much insulation' talk and I'm also hoping I wasn't going off topic. How about I revise what I said for Portland to IECC 2015 standards or better. Even with that I think that window space should be minimized to reduce summer solar heat gain and allow for more insulation space or at least build attractive shutters or other solar reducing into the design(properly designed overhangs or solar screens) to not overheat in the summer.

More info here.
https://www.energycodes.gov/resident...sals-2015-iecc

I might be wrong but I thought I was fairly familiar with Portland's climate, I think our summers are roughly the same level of heat(mid-80 degree days for a month or so with some days touching 90s with dew points reaching the 80s.) with our winters being colder. I suppose this all changes with the quantity of sun and other factors. I think that it wouln't be too hard to go the supplementary solar space heating route whether air or water with 0.2 u-value windows and R25 or better insulation and still be fairly comfortable there, granted most people probably wouldn't bother but in my opinion it's cheap if done DIY and reduces the need to use outside energy for heating. Our once yearly night -20f temperatures and about a weeks worth of -10f nights that we get on a yearly basis makes my solar heating system inadequate for those coldest nights but I expect it to give a 30f average boost in temperatures on sunny days prior to adding insulation.

Unfortunately what's slowing me down is not being able to find 0.20 u-value windows with a 'special order' up-charge because the quantity they are produced at the moment is small. Once the IECC code takes effect I can get them cheaper and will follow through with my insulation and window plans but staying with the current windows and adding the insulation makes me move the windows out 4" and I'd rather put new improved windows in versus just moving them out because there really is no added effort to replacing the windows at the same time and it would allow me to use new construction windows instead of retrofit which could come at a better price and with a new building code would probably be easier to find. ...although if time and money finds me sooner, I'm looking at Zola windows, a builder in Wisconsin are used them for their 'almost passive house' when they presented at the MREA Energy Fair in Custer, WI last year.

05-06-15, 01:51 PM	#20
MN Renovator Less usage=Cheaper bills Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 939 Thanks: 41 Thanked 116 Times in 90 Posts	I meant to say 2x6 framing, that was an error. My headspace was thinking double-stud 2x4 wall framing. For what it's worth, I support the revised building codes that as soon as they are adopted in full requiring R25 with 2x6 construction with the IECC 2015, although some of that code is still draft such as windows requiring a u-value of 0.20 in climate zones 4 or colder which includes Portland. I think these are steps in the right direction, although code minimums as you said are minimums. I hope what I said wasn't included as 'too much insulation' talk and I'm also hoping I wasn't going off topic. How about I revise what I said for Portland to IECC 2015 standards or better. Even with that I think that window space should be minimized to reduce summer solar heat gain and allow for more insulation space or at least build attractive shutters or other solar reducing into the design(properly designed overhangs or solar screens) to not overheat in the summer. More info here. https://www.energycodes.gov/resident...sals-2015-iecc I might be wrong but I thought I was fairly familiar with Portland's climate, I think our summers are roughly the same level of heat(mid-80 degree days for a month or so with some days touching 90s with dew points reaching the 80s.) with our winters being colder. I suppose this all changes with the quantity of sun and other factors. I think that it wouln't be too hard to go the supplementary solar space heating route whether air or water with 0.2 u-value windows and R25 or better insulation and still be fairly comfortable there, granted most people probably wouldn't bother but in my opinion it's cheap if done DIY and reduces the need to use outside energy for heating. Our once yearly night -20f temperatures and about a weeks worth of -10f nights that we get on a yearly basis makes my solar heating system inadequate for those coldest nights but I expect it to give a 30f average boost in temperatures on sunny days prior to adding insulation. Unfortunately what's slowing me down is not being able to find 0.20 u-value windows with a 'special order' up-charge because the quantity they are produced at the moment is small. Once the IECC code takes effect I can get them cheaper and will follow through with my insulation and window plans but staying with the current windows and adding the insulation makes me move the windows out 4" and I'd rather put new improved windows in versus just moving them out because there really is no added effort to replacing the windows at the same time and it would allow me to use new construction windows instead of retrofit which could come at a better price and with a new building code would probably be easier to find. ...although if time and money finds me sooner, I'm looking at Zola windows, a builder in Wisconsin are used them for their 'almost passive house' when they presented at the MREA Energy Fair in Custer, WI last year.