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mk1st · 05-11-11, 03:00 PM

Yes, advanced framing would use 24" O/C, but that's just the beginning. What it is is a technique to eliminate the unnecessary framing i.e. that which does not contribute to the strength of the structure. This includes things like lining up all the studs and rafters over one-another, no structural headers in non-load bearing walls and reducing the amount of framing around doors and windows. An engineered framing plan is needed but it's well worth the cost as you can remove up to 30% of the wood from a structure. When production builders get on board with this they can really save a bundle plus the house is more efficient. Obviously, the simpler the structure the easier this would be to implement but we're probably not talking McMansions here

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As for insulation, the environment it's installed into is as important as the amount. The cavities should be sealed, no air moving through them - especially if you use fiberglass. Cover any exposed knee wall cavities or vaulted ceiling end-walls with rigid foam board (tape & seal seams and edges!) Cellulose is IMO, the best choice for open attics as it "fits" well around obstacles and the joists/trusses themselves, plus it's pretty inexpensive. Round here (southern Wisconsin) we shoot for R50 which is approximately 18" or so.

05-11-11, 03:00 PM	#45
mk1st Friend of Entropy Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Fort Atkinson Wi Posts: 17 Thanks: 1 Thanked 5 Times in 2 Posts	Yes, advanced framing would use 24" O/C, but that's just the beginning. What it is is a technique to eliminate the unnecessary framing i.e. that which does not contribute to the strength of the structure. This includes things like lining up all the studs and rafters over one-another, no structural headers in non-load bearing walls and reducing the amount of framing around doors and windows. An engineered framing plan is needed but it's well worth the cost as you can remove up to 30% of the wood from a structure. When production builders get on board with this they can really save a bundle plus the house is more efficient. Obviously, the simpler the structure the easier this would be to implement but we're probably not talking McMansions here. As for insulation, the environment it's installed into is as important as the amount. The cavities should be sealed, no air moving through them - especially if you use fiberglass. Cover any exposed knee wall cavities or vaulted ceiling end-walls with rigid foam board (tape & seal seams and edges!) Cellulose is IMO, the best choice for open attics as it "fits" well around obstacles and the joists/trusses themselves, plus it's pretty inexpensive. Round here (southern Wisconsin) we shoot for R50 which is approximately 18" or so.