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Old 11-24-15, 09:03 AM   #3
jeff5may
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Stuff used so far:


RIDGID 101 Tubing Cutter-40617 - The Home Depot
around $20 at hardware stores everywhere (knock-offs are less)


HDX Swaging Tool-HDX053 - The Home Depot
I got mine for $6.99 at harbor freight tools.

This swaging punch is how to adapt smaller tubing (under 3/4") to fit without spending time and cash hunting for adapters and couplings. The first time you don't need to run back to the store for a fitting, it pays for itself. After that, every time it gets used is a bonus. It makes ends look like the ends of the valve below.


Ranco V3 310081 7GD B1227308 3 Way 1 2 Ton Reversing Valve 10283 | eBay under $20

$2.00 each on ebay, more cost less each.




Airgas - HAR4031 - 1/16" Harris® Safety-Silv® 40 High Silver Brazing Alloy Wire 1 Troy Ounce Pack (Prices are subject to change without notice due to raw materials cost volatility) under $15, used maybe 2 bucks worth. You get about 1.5 meters of wire per troy ounce.


https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/ei...:UNDEF:X:40021 ON SALE NOW: $3.99 for a 1/2 pound tub. I got a 6 oz bottle for around the same at airgas.



Airgas - RAD64001758 - .050" X 1/8" Diameter Radnor® by Harris® Stay-Silv® 5 Silver Solder Job Pak (prices are subject to change without notice due to raw materials cost volatility) Local HVAC supply house sells these for $1.50/ stick.
Tractor Supply sells Hobart (aka Miller) brand for around $20/box. At the store, it is the only thing that looks like what you might need. Right next to the silicon bronze rod on the wall.
Hobart Bare Bronze Brazing Rod, 1/8 in. dia., Pack of 10 - For Life Out Here


Airgas can get small job packs of the 5 and 15 sta-silv sticks and flux-coated safety-silv sticks in whatever flavor you want. The uncoated (5 and 15) rods are self-fluxing on copper. When brazing to anything iron, brass, bronze, or stainless/nickel, don't use the 5 or 15. The phosphorus in the alloy will not wet them. Go straight to the safety-silv and flux.

The flux-coated sticks are color coded so you can mix them all up and not lose track of which is what.

Depending on how clean your pipe joints are, the flux on the stick may be enough to flow the joint well. The more silver content, the better the stuff sticks between dissimilar metals and the more it costs. The thing is, you have to decide which process to use before you apply heat. I always err on the safe side: anything that is not new (or newly dismembered) gets sanded shiny and fluxed on the male end. If something isn't copper, it gets safety-silv and some extra flux on the outside once fitted. After brazing, the flux must be removed or it will corrode the piping. I wipe the joint with a wet rag (used as a heat shield during brazing) to clean off the remaining flux while the rag and joint is still warm. Don't burn yourself (wear gloves)!

Last edited by jeff5may; 10-28-16 at 06:48 AM..
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