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Old 01-14-15, 11:12 PM   #4
Quest
Apprentice EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 109
Thanks: 13
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
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Thanks all for some of the most informative postings RE: CO.

My biggest challenge (in my house, with natural gas hot water storage tank + single-stage hydronic radiant in-floor heating boiler is that since I replaced my AO Smith "skinny" 40 gal hot water tank with a more efficient GE 12yr 40gal tank (3X the tank insulation built in), the flue pipe is not able to keep hot enough when seasonal changover (during late fall when it's time to cut over to whole house heating). That's the time when I turn on the thermostat to command for the boiler to do it's job, backdraft occurs (exhaust gas not hot enough to go out of the pipe, also my house is slightly negative pressurised due to the 2003 construction code). I have 3 CO alarm in-house, with the one closest to the boiler room being an AC type with digital display, and one upstairs (closest to all the bedrooms) is battery operated.

I would watch in about 5 mins time when my CO level elevated to around 300ppm, when all the CO detector alarms started to wail.....I have to gain access into the boiler room, turn the hot water heater tank to high (to kick start the burner to "on") so as to help heat up the exhaust pipe, while cracking windows opened to help vent/exchange some fresh air into the house.

This usually fixed the problem.

Oh and BTW: I have spent some $$ calling on professionals to investigate/remedy my problem, but none of them were able to improve on the situation.

I guess my situation shall improve a bit when I find time later this spring or early summer when I install my HRV (and I'll try to get it to slightly +ve pressure, by around +2~3%.

Cheers,

Q.
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