The damper knob not completely opening or closing the damper is another common problem with temp control, but it controls freezer destination temp and fridge pulldown rate. More airflow causes less runtime per cycle and the resulting decrease in delta T between cooler and freezer sections. A blocked duct or damper causes a super cold freezer or a unit that runs forever to satisfy the thermostat. Too much airflow and your milk freezes when the icemaker is making ice. Most modern units have ducts that lead supply air to the crisper and beer section, as well as the main box, to annihilate stratification.
The twisty knob thermostat hasn't changed much in decades. The part number of yours will most likely cross reference to a couple that have been around forever. If not, those rare, discontinued NOS parts are like NOS vacuum tubes: the good ones ain't cheap.
Haven't heard much about compressor operation. It does what the thermostat tells it to. If you crank the thermostat to cold, you should be able to make slushy milk and freeze celery in the fridge box. If it doesn't run much, it won't cool much. If it runs a lot and won't get the box cold, you could have a bad door seal.
Since you previously indicated cold freezer temps, I'm assuming the cooling circuit is OK. Cleaning out the filth probably made the evaporator more effective at making frost. Meanwhile, the condenser is running cooler, lowering system pressure and preventing evaporator flooding/warming after compressor shutoff. The faster pulldown rate trips the thermostat faster, causing less overshoot. HMMMM...yup, that's about it for now.
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