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Old 01-31-18, 04:12 PM   #8
ThMihov
Lurking Renovator
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sofia
Posts: 9
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Hi again from me
Thanks for the kind words
Piwoslaw,I know that I can't be 100% accurate,because unfortunately we all can't have a laboratory in our homes,but it would be nice.As you said,real life results are more important,because the real world is not an ideal place .As for the flow rate and pressures-I'm measuring them with a refrigerant gauge,that's the best i can do.Whether or not,they are only useful to judge about the charge,or some kind of abnormal condition.The best scenario,which unfortunately is not the case with these mini-splits is to have two service valves,so one can measure both pressures and superheat/subcool simultaneously,in that way,knowing motor parameters (cylinder displacement and RPM) and using refrigerant properties,can see the real refrigeration effect,but unfortunately it's not possible only with one of the pressures...
The only way I can measure better water flow rate is by using a smaller flow sensor,for which I'll have to wait a month or so,because I can't find some in mo country,so I'll have to buy it from e-bay...I hate to wait .But that doesn't mean that until I'm waiting ,I can't try to figure out how to calibrate and use that one.
As for the heating needs-maybe i said earlied,i dont remember,but this setup is in my garage under my floor.Paradoxically i hated math in school,but now i like to do math,and to see numbersSo i made some calculations about heat losses of the garage,and after the bottom line,the result was 2400W to maintain 22C indoor with 0C outdoor.I doubt that these 1.3kW from the indoor unit will manage to heat it,unless the outdoor temp rise significantly.Even more,it's on the ground floor,and it's full of "junk" (as can be seen from the pictures),so initially everything in this room should be heated first,then the concrete floor,walls...To get more clear idea about the room-it's 5 by 6m at 2.2m height.Concrete floor,with nothing on it,45cm outer stone wall with plaster and 30cm brick wall with plaster.Windows are old,not good sealing with area of 2.3m2 and a wooden garage door 2.5x2.2m
with some gap between the floor.So it really isn't an energy efficient garage
As for the speed of pump-it's only a one speed one..Excluding VF drive,the only way,for which I have prepared a T-joints while i was connecting the plumbings,is to bypass some of the water with a tap after the pump to the return pipe of the tank,so that way only part of the water goes to the indoor unit,and the other goes directly to the tank.At the moment,they are sealed,but i'll experiment with this too
jeff5may,I'll buy this one tomorrow,or in Friday-BRENNENSTUHL PRIMERA-LINE PM231E.Sorry about,not post a direct link,but i still don't have permission to post links.The next thing which i have to do is to write some code to collect data for the indoor unit (either more inaccurate way by measuring deltaT and time,until i got the new flow meter,or if i manage to calibrate the current meter),to be able to estimate the COP in different conditions as you and Piwoslaw mentioned .The last thing to do is to write some code for automatic defrost,because the defrost's i made was done by me,so that everything can run without my intervention.
The major problem is the lack of free time,because i have a little boy who wants to play with me after i get back from work,and in general spare it's time with me ,and the only time in week in which i can do something is at the weekend if there isn't something urgent to do,and when he is with my parents.So the progress is very slow,but the family is the most important,science and crafting is next
Thanks for the participations,and every correction and good ideas are welcome
Tomorrow,because now it's getting late i'll write the simple method which came to my mind to operate the AC ,in particular the defrosts,since these models of Haier are known with their odd defrosts-either it defrosts when there is no need,or they defrost once a year
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