FYI, In 1995 i designed an in floor hydronic heating system for our conventional stick frame new home (2x6 outside studs, crawl space under TJI floor joists, ¾” ply sub floor), single floor, about 2400’ + 2.5 car garage (also heated).
The house consists of 2 independent hydronlc zones, bedrooms carpeted, rest of the house lime stone tile. About 5500’ or 6000’ of 0.5” ID poly butylene tubing (pre PEX) was stapled to the sub floor at 6” spacing in approximately 200’ lengths from and returning to the 2 plastic zone distribution manifolds, flow adjustable for actual loop lengths. This piping was covered with a pouring of 1.5” Gyp Crete, a very fluid gypsum based material that will flow to level. Sets up overnite but took weeks in the summer to dry the moisture out of it, no hindrance to conventional construction.
Pros: It has been a joy to live on for 15+ years now, absolutely quiet, constant comfort temp 24/7 during the heating season. Does take overnight to reheat when turned down for extended travel.
Cons: Not compatible with AC, two separate systems. But no need for AC at 4700’ elevation on the E slope of the Sierras, always cools off at night in all but the hottest summer days.
The system is supplied from a heat exchanger within a propane fired high efficiency DHW heater. Why I’m lurking here, need to add a W/WHP to the system. I am adjacent to an irrigation ditch running about 100 GPM all winter, never freezes completely even in extended sub zero temps. A 35 degree water source has to be better than a -20 air source!
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