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stevehull · 06-15-13, 04:11 PM

Craig,

I have some information here that may have you think twice about the problems with metal roofing (para three above)

We have a large livestock barn (90x60 feet) with a plywood roof and 26G "R" panels on it (3/12 pitch). It is just adjacent to the two homes with 3-tab. It got the same hail, but there is FAR less damage.

There is some denting on some of the raised "rib" sections, but there is absolutely no damage where the hail hit on the flat areas of the panels. I asked the adjuster about this and he said that having the flat part of the "R" panel directly on top of the plywood is what allows it to be so sturdy.

I was thinking of AC's comment (to run PEX pipe under the metal roof to capture solar water heat), but it would then negate having the flat section of the "R" panel flat against the roof. But I could run PEX pipe in the raised rib sections as that channel space would allow me to run the pipe in there.

Does anyone know how high a temp PEX pipe can get? I would probably employ a "drain back" solar hot water heat system that I put up on another home. I do know that standard black polyethylene (PE) pipe melts fairly easily.

My policy will immediately give me 30% right now for cosmetic damage to the barn metal roof and they will allow me to get a full replacement on the entire metal roof so long that I pay the deductible. They rated the roof as a 50 year roof and the depreciation (5 year old roof) is only 10%.

Here is the VERY neat part. Only about 25% of the barn "R" panels have any significant denting on the "ribs". The adjuster told me to take off ALL the panels, save the good ones (about 75% of them) and reinstall the panels on one of the other houses. He suggested using silicone RTV glue in the holes on the lower panel screw holes and then putting new screws with neoprene gaskets through the already drilled holes in the top panel (where they overlap).

The length of the panels, on the barn roof (peak to eave) are longer than the peak to eave on the other two houses. So it will need to be trimmed - not too bad for almost "free" panels.

This removal must be done carefully, but he said any good metal roofer could do this. Also it is critical to have the panels stored carefully. The other roof (on homes) do not have to get a "tear off" (only one layer of shingles) and I get to recycle a lot of really good metal.

Any ideas on the utility of this?

You are correct to get a really good paint job and some of the better metal roofing manufacturers have a "galvalume" process that is fade resistant/rust resistant for 50 years. Secondly, a lot of the really good paint finishes incorporate tiny glass beads that reflect the solar heat (insolation) and have a very high reflectance (cooler roof).

Bottom line . . . I may have a solution to my roofing problems!!

Steve
(slowly getting back internet service)

06-15-13, 04:11 PM	#19
stevehull Steve Hull Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: hilly, tree covered Arcadia, OK USA Posts: 826 Thanks: 241 Thanked 165 Times in 123 Posts	Craig, I have some information here that may have you think twice about the problems with metal roofing (para three above) We have a large livestock barn (90x60 feet) with a plywood roof and 26G "R" panels on it (3/12 pitch). It is just adjacent to the two homes with 3-tab. It got the same hail, but there is FAR less damage. There is some denting on some of the raised "rib" sections, but there is absolutely no damage where the hail hit on the flat areas of the panels. I asked the adjuster about this and he said that having the flat part of the "R" panel directly on top of the plywood is what allows it to be so sturdy. I was thinking of AC's comment (to run PEX pipe under the metal roof to capture solar water heat), but it would then negate having the flat section of the "R" panel flat against the roof. But I could run PEX pipe in the raised rib sections as that channel space would allow me to run the pipe in there. Does anyone know how high a temp PEX pipe can get? I would probably employ a "drain back" solar hot water heat system that I put up on another home. I do know that standard black polyethylene (PE) pipe melts fairly easily. My policy will immediately give me 30% right now for cosmetic damage to the barn metal roof and they will allow me to get a full replacement on the entire metal roof so long that I pay the deductible. They rated the roof as a 50 year roof and the depreciation (5 year old roof) is only 10%. Here is the VERY neat part. Only about 25% of the barn "R" panels have any significant denting on the "ribs". The adjuster told me to take off ALL the panels, save the good ones (about 75% of them) and reinstall the panels on one of the other houses. He suggested using silicone RTV glue in the holes on the lower panel screw holes and then putting new screws with neoprene gaskets through the already drilled holes in the top panel (where they overlap). The length of the panels, on the barn roof (peak to eave) are longer than the peak to eave on the other two houses. So it will need to be trimmed - not too bad for almost "free" panels. This removal must be done carefully, but he said any good metal roofer could do this. Also it is critical to have the panels stored carefully. The other roof (on homes) do not have to get a "tear off" (only one layer of shingles) and I get to recycle a lot of really good metal. Any ideas on the utility of this? You are correct to get a really good paint job and some of the better metal roofing manufacturers have a "galvalume" process that is fade resistant/rust resistant for 50 years. Secondly, a lot of the really good paint finishes incorporate tiny glass beads that reflect the solar heat (insolation) and have a very high reflectance (cooler roof). Bottom line . . . I may have a solution to my roofing problems!! Steve (slowly getting back internet service) __________________ consulting on geothermal heating/cooling & rational energy use since 1990 Last edited by stevehull; 06-16-13 at 09:15 AM..