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buffalobillpatrick · 12-01-14, 06:49 PM

"copper tubing embedded in concrete" is a very bad idea. Many older homes had this & many developed leaks & were abandoned.

Like the skylight saying: There are really only 2 types, those that leak, and those that will leak.

I like the "home run" method using 1/2" O2 PEX limited to 250' each.
Home run means no fittings in floor, all loops start & end at above floor 1" manifolds.

A ball valve at each end of each loop, allows air purging by shutting off all loops but 1 at a time. Also allows for return loop temperature to be balenced. Yes it can be done.

If a loop gets a nail driven into it, that single loop can be shut off at both ends.

I know that your not suppose to use a ball valve for flow balencing (suppose to use a gate valve) but at these low water flow conditions they seem to work just fine.

Where each 1/2" PEX line enters/exits the concrete a 1" 90* grey plastic electrical sleeve is placed, to protect the PEX.

I like some of Blue Bomber Man's logic in post #33 above.

Much more heat is lost along exterior walls & windows, so the hotter source water should be run there 1st. (I think?)

12-01-14, 06:49 PM	#42
buffalobillpatrick Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Florissant, Colorado Posts: 599 Thanks: 814 Thanked 59 Times in 55 Posts	"copper tubing embedded in concrete" is a very bad idea. Many older homes had this & many developed leaks & were abandoned. Like the skylight saying: There are really only 2 types, those that leak, and those that will leak. I like the "home run" method using 1/2" O2 PEX limited to 250' each. Home run means no fittings in floor, all loops start & end at above floor 1" manifolds. A ball valve at each end of each loop, allows air purging by shutting off all loops but 1 at a time. Also allows for return loop temperature to be balenced. Yes it can be done. If a loop gets a nail driven into it, that single loop can be shut off at both ends. I know that your not suppose to use a ball valve for flow balencing (suppose to use a gate valve) but at these low water flow conditions they seem to work just fine. Where each 1/2" PEX line enters/exits the concrete a 1" 90* grey plastic electrical sleeve is placed, to protect the PEX. I like some of Blue Bomber Man's logic in post #33 above. Much more heat is lost along exterior walls & windows, so the hotter source water should be run there 1st. (I think?) Last edited by buffalobillpatrick; 12-01-14 at 07:04 PM..