EcoRenovator - View Single Post - Solar water preheater project based on builditsolar $1000 system

strider3700 · 10-08-11, 02:55 AM

I ran into a problem today.

I was digging the hole for the tank in the back yard. it needed to be roughly 5'x4'x4'. I got down to 3'6" in one area and hit a sewer pipe that I knew was in the area but hoped would be deeper. I figured I could work around that by moving the entire tank 6" further forward and just missing the pipe. I continued digging and in the opposite corner I hit what must be the old septic system tank. We've been on sewer since the early 70's at the latest but the house was originally on septic. Anyways following that tank along It's only 1 1/2 feet down and is really fricking big and in the way. So this makes things far harder. My original location no longer works for the tank, it would have to be roughly 8' over or 5' further from the house then I had originally wanted. This just isn't going to work so I need to figure something else out.

I could build a tank and place it indoors. This is more expensive then my free tank, and takes up a bunch of space in the laundry area. Also if it fails it's my basement that will be flooded.

I can leave the tank in the carport. the top of the tank is roughly 1/2" above the top of the foundation wall. So the lines to/from the connectors would be above ground by a few inches near the wall. Remember this is a drainback system. This isn't a huge deal but is a bit of a pain. I had planned on adding 6" of insulation under the tank however. This would leave the lines about 10" above ground level and they would stick up at least 4' or 5' before going back underground. that is going to get in the way. Perhaps I'll live with 2" of insulation under the tank. Perhaps I'll live with none...

Really the big issue is getting the water from the tank into the heat exchanger inside the house. the lines would have to leave the tank go up 5' to the ceiling, run along a joist 10' then do a 90, move another 10' drop down the wall about 3' and then go through a 90 intothe wall, move 30' drop down 6 or 7' to the heat exchanger then return back to the tank. this is going to take a pretty serious pump is my guess.

Also my carport is open to the weather so freezing of the line is possible. I could wrap it in pipe insulation and hope for the best. The other thing I could do is monitor the temp in the line and sacrifice heat from the tank by pumping heated water through it when it's getting close to freezing. Not optimal but possible.

10-08-11, 02:55 AM	#64
strider3700 Master EcoRenovator Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Vancouver Island BC Posts: 745 Thanks: 23 Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts	I ran into a problem today. I was digging the hole for the tank in the back yard. it needed to be roughly 5'x4'x4'. I got down to 3'6" in one area and hit a sewer pipe that I knew was in the area but hoped would be deeper. I figured I could work around that by moving the entire tank 6" further forward and just missing the pipe. I continued digging and in the opposite corner I hit what must be the old septic system tank. We've been on sewer since the early 70's at the latest but the house was originally on septic. Anyways following that tank along It's only 1 1/2 feet down and is really fricking big and in the way. So this makes things far harder. My original location no longer works for the tank, it would have to be roughly 8' over or 5' further from the house then I had originally wanted. This just isn't going to work so I need to figure something else out. I could build a tank and place it indoors. This is more expensive then my free tank, and takes up a bunch of space in the laundry area. Also if it fails it's my basement that will be flooded. I can leave the tank in the carport. the top of the tank is roughly 1/2" above the top of the foundation wall. So the lines to/from the connectors would be above ground by a few inches near the wall. Remember this is a drainback system. This isn't a huge deal but is a bit of a pain. I had planned on adding 6" of insulation under the tank however. This would leave the lines about 10" above ground level and they would stick up at least 4' or 5' before going back underground. that is going to get in the way. Perhaps I'll live with 2" of insulation under the tank. Perhaps I'll live with none... Really the big issue is getting the water from the tank into the heat exchanger inside the house. the lines would have to leave the tank go up 5' to the ceiling, run along a joist 10' then do a 90, move another 10' drop down the wall about 3' and then go through a 90 intothe wall, move 30' drop down 6 or 7' to the heat exchanger then return back to the tank. this is going to take a pretty serious pump is my guess. Also my carport is open to the weather so freezing of the line is possible. I could wrap it in pipe insulation and hope for the best. The other thing I could do is monitor the temp in the line and sacrifice heat from the tank by pumping heated water through it when it's getting close to freezing. Not optimal but possible.