[takyka]

As long as you don't reverse the cycle it looks ok.
Because of the small difference between outdoor temp and evaporated refrigerant temp I have the assumption you have nice big superheat. It's not efficient but safe.

If you reverse your valve, you can easely damage your compressor by flooding. If you want to reverse the cycle, you need to install capillary tube+check walve for BPHX too.
Then you can read suction line pressure from the point your red gauge is connected currently. But that suction pressure would not be the same like in HP mode.

By the way. I have the impression, you have too much refigerant in your system. The Red gauge and the temperature prior capillary tube shows you have 10° subcool after condenser. It's causing higher than necessary condenser pressure and less efficient heat transfer in condenser. By reducing the charge, you can reduce subcool. But before anithing, you should be able to measure suction line pressure in reality.

I don't know what is your purpose with this system. You want to tune it to have the most efficient setup, Or you are satisfied if it is a bit more economical than electric heating.
If the first is the case, I recommend you to take a deep breath and break into your outdoor unit. First I recommend you to throw away capillary tube (not so far, you can use it as defrost metering device), install TXV or (preferred) EEV. Then add liquid tank and sight glass after condenser. Don't forget to add some service ports to the lines. With these modifications you would have a system where you have control over subcool and superheat almost independently.

T.