EcoRenovator - View Single Post - Sanyo 24KHS72 Mini-Split DIY REPAIR project

Xringer · 09-24-11, 03:43 PM

I got out the Coronas (w/limes) and had the vac down to 250 microns when my HVAC buddy showed up.

We removed the pump and connected up the R410A can on it's shorty line with release button.
Flooded the line out a few times with gas, then cranked the fitting down tight,
then added liquid R410A to the system. (At long last)! It sucked it up!
We pulsed the button lightly, and slowly(30 min) added 10 or 15 oz.
The rate-of-fill slowed down when the pressure got up around 138 PSI.
(The bottom of the coil dropped down to 60 F).

Later, when I have 230 power to the system, I'll reconnect the test loop, vac it out,
so we can add the rest of the 28 oz can, using the normal low pressure side method.
28 oz will bring it to 40% of a factory charge.
I'm not sure if that will be enough to check the compressor with my micro test loop.
If it seems squirrel, but cooling works, I'll get another can so we can get it
charged to 80% factory.. Which should be plenty for a medium short line-set.

I've also added a long wire up to the T-Run pins button on the controller PCB.
I have a toggle switch on the end of the wire, so I can figure out how T-Run runs. (from a safe distance).

There is come confusion over the T-Run pin assignments.
Since it looks like a plain logic input that gets grounded to run, it should be safe to hack.

09-24-11, 03:43 PM	#17
Xringer Lex Parsimoniae Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Woburn, MA Posts: 4,918 Thanks: 114 Thanked 250 Times in 230 Posts	I got out the Coronas (w/limes) and had the vac down to 250 microns when my HVAC buddy showed up. We removed the pump and connected up the R410A can on it's shorty line with release button. Flooded the line out a few times with gas, then cranked the fitting down tight, then added liquid R410A to the system. (At long last)! It sucked it up! We pulsed the button lightly, and slowly(30 min) added 10 or 15 oz. The rate-of-fill slowed down when the pressure got up around 138 PSI. (The bottom of the coil dropped down to 60 F). Later, when I have 230 power to the system, I'll reconnect the test loop, vac it out, so we can add the rest of the 28 oz can, using the normal low pressure side method. 28 oz will bring it to 40% of a factory charge. I'm not sure if that will be enough to check the compressor with my micro test loop. If it seems squirrel, but cooling works, I'll get another can so we can get it charged to 80% factory.. Which should be plenty for a medium short line-set. I've also added a long wire up to the T-Run pins button on the controller PCB. I have a toggle switch on the end of the wire, so I can figure out how T-Run runs. (from a safe distance). There is come confusion over the T-Run pin assignments. Since it looks like a plain logic input that gets grounded to run, it should be safe to hack.