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Old 08-12-14, 07:05 PM   #6
AC_Hacker
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Originally Posted by BillS111 View Post
Thank you so much! I will check out those threads.

According to this, if i want 420 ppm, i will need about 550 CFM. Does that sound about right?

ps - yes, i have a Co2 meter
My CO2 controller is built and working, but the HRV is still parts at this point.

I looked at your paper, and to be honest, the cfm doesn't mean too much to me at this point, since I am counting on my HRV controller to supply air at what ever rate rate is required give me my target CO2 range.

I have noticed that if your winter air is fairly still, CO2 'bubbles' will form where you may be sitting, or working.

Gas cooking is a CO2 crime scene, and I have gone to induction cooking when possible (almost always).

My gas dryer is also bad as is my gas water heater, and they're all hooked up OK.

Last time I looked closely at ASHRE CO2 acceptable levels, I thought they were way too high. So I'm not sure if you paper will get you what you want or not.

I also found some great research from Germany, citing better school performance when CO2 levels were below 800 ppm. Makes sense to me.

Here is a link to an Irish Passive House HRV, that was my inspitation for building my CO2 controller, and I plan to closely model my HRV on their product, which they will not sell into the US.

[QUOTE]
The system will always run itself to maintain the highest level of efficiency while ensuring CO2 and humidity levels are regulated using sensors for each. When CO2 reaches 650ppm or humidity reaches 45%, the unit automatically slows down to trickle speed until levels become higher again.
[/QIOTE]

By the way, how is your indoor plant situation? (no joke)


Best,

-AC
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Last edited by AC_Hacker; 08-12-14 at 07:31 PM..
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