[Ron342]

So thanks to you guys i can braze & purge hvac plumbing (Jeff, your detailed explanation from your 2010 post was great) and have a 100 ft geo hole done, with 3/4" hdpe poly ubend pipe -mostly saturated with water and sand in the hole from about 25' on down, leads into the basement where the water heater lives. Plan on tapping a small bladder expansion tank, 1/25 hp grundfos pump and air extractor from my old baseboard hot water system into the geo line to the evaporator - am i missing anything in this circuit?
I have a 80 gal elec hot water heater with 25 ft of 1/4" coppper twirled thru the top of it thru a 3/4" threaded hole and out thru the bottom drain hole (see pics) for a condenser. There are furrel fittings that seal it off and thread into the tank. You can see the top in the pic. I'll probably put a galvanized T fitting at the drain hole to retain the drain valve.
Theres an evap that surrounds the top of the water heater made from 3/8 copper spiralled inside about 30 ft of 3/4 hdpe poly pipe. The copper enters and exits the poly pipe thru 3/4 copper T fittings and more of the furrel fittings. The 3/4 copper ppipe stubbed into the T fits well into the 3/4 popy if you heat the poly and round over the mating end of the copper pipe. Its an easy exchanger if it works - the copper and poly pipe are coiled about same diameter and the copper coil can be turned backwards into the slippery hdpe pipe.
Theres a 7500 btu r22 compressor and its mating cap tube from a window unit that i plan to sit on top of the water heater. I think its a scroll comp. since its relatively tall and skinny. I plan on putting the r22 back because its in my basement.
Locations of the comppressor & evap can easily be moved at this stage.
And i'm stopped with these questions:
1. Do i run the comp. discharge into the top hot end of the water heater or into the cold bottom end? Most of the hacks i've seen go in and out thru the same element hole but this could make a significant difference since theres so great a temp difference. Also, do i have enough condenser tubing in the tank?
2. Should i run the cap tube in at the bottom of the evap coil or the top? I am concerned about oil flow? I assume either way that counterflow with the geo water works best?
3. I have a liquid line filter dryer, sight glass and taps for the hi and low sides. Does the sequence of the liquid filter and sight glass make any difference? Should i also add a pressure tap for the condenser exit?,
4. The comp. has a receiver or filter already in its inlet close to the comp, see pic. Should i just leave it there? The unit worked well.
I am trying to put together an IOT controller for this from Actuario's posts - one of the worlds and this sites renaissance men, i think, & this is sort of a learner for a geo water heat pump system.
Thanks guys!