Steve,
The trouble with adding insulation inside is that with all of the surface-mounted conduits, electrical boxes, 4" grounding straps, wall outlets, etc, is that it would have to be a lot of smaller squares ...
The 30 year old shingle roof although well insulated, is starting to leak, so I was considering adding an inch of styrofoam to the top, and overlaying with white metal.
I also thought about outside insulation on the South wall...
There is now one 25K window AC, and I need another for backup. Each would be controlled by external contactors or SSRs.
Ideally, the transmitter would like 62 deg at 30% RH, but I don't think that's a practical goal. Outside RH here varies from about 40% to 90%
My main goal is maximizing outside air use while avoiding indoor condensation. Perhaps a max of 75% inside RH?
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehull
OK - let's first start by insulating all the walls. Right now, there is little use "generating cool" as it will immediately be sucked out on hot days.
I would suggest an easy fix - use two layers of 1 inch "blueboard" - aka closed cell foam. It has an R value of about 6 per inch so you get up to R12 or so - a huge improvement.
This stuff can be glued up to the walls and ceiling with construction adhesive. The boards come as 8 x 4 foot sheets at big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc) for about $15 a sheet. Easy to cut to fit. Forget the floor unless it is above a crawl space.
This is a one afternoon job and it will do wonders.
Then we can tackle the cooling issue. I am leaning toward a small window AC unit as it also dehumidifies. You don't want humidity around transmitters . . . .
Steve
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