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Old 08-23-17, 05:53 PM   #27
philb
Apprentice EcoRenovator
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Oklahoma City
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OilPan4,
I went down this same road in 2011. Here is a book that will help you make the decisions easier. This guy makes and breaks concrete with rebar, stucco wire, mesh and expanded metal. The book is technical with many graphs and tables. Its available on several websites. It's my go-to-book for anything concrete and mortar.

Ferrocement & Laminated Cementitious Composites BY Dr. Antoine Naaman

I use EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) in concrete and mortars every time I pour. EVA is usually called 'poly'. It can be found in most paints, tile and stucco mortars, Elmers wood glue and concrete. Solar panels are coated with the stuff as well as the glass face on cell phones. It will make the mix set faster and retain moisture so the chemical hardening process will continue for longer. I also spray a 10% solution of EVA and water on the concrete surface after removing the forms to help it hold water. The Stamp Store.com carries the poly but it's rather pricey. IMHO, Elmers wood glue is just as good when mixed at 1/2 cup per 30 lbs of Portland.

Flyash at 10% to Portland weight will also help lots with hardness. That's another of the concrete companies secret ingredients. They will mix in into the concrete truck batches up to 30% to Portland by weight. Lowes in Colorado has it in a few places. I don't know about NM.


Acrylic additives can and will cause delamination between layers. So if you do use it, pour the whole thing at once. Acryl 60 is one brand that's available at Ace Hardware for about $60/gal. It's mixed at 10 to one ratio with water before adding to concrete.

Here's another site you might check out:
ferrocement.net
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