Thanks for the info everyone!
Quote:
Originally Posted by superlen
If you spent any time on hvac-balk you'll know that you can never ever ever change the size of either HEX on any system ever. Why would you? what are you a dumbass? we all know they have to be matched...and installed by a licensed hvac contractor.. you shouldn't even be asking this question, only cheapskate diy guys wonder this.. you should only touch the thermostat after a licensed hvac tech has approved you. Of course by the fact that we are in this site, we know all that is BS.
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LOL! I totally know what you mean. HVAC guys and electricians both think they are god. I can't say I've ever hired either one of them to do something for me! (Nor would I dare ask them for advice)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff5may
My suggestion is this: set up your test rig with the barrels and copper tubing. Make your connections to the suction and discharge lines at the compressor with an access valve in each and a sight glass in the suction line. Chop out the cap tube, leaving a few inches of tubing at each end. Slide flare nuts on each end, and flare the ends of tubing on both sides of the cap tube. Use a flare union to connect the cap tube assembly to the evaporator tube. If you will be using a filter dryer, get one with male flare fittings and connect it to the cap tube. Put a flare nut on your condenser outlet tube and flare the end. Connect the flared end to the filter and pressurize the rig. Vacuum, purge, vacuum, charge.
The cap tube you have will work for a first shot to prove operation. Let us know what happens.
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That's what I've been starting to think, just put the cap tube on flare connections, then it's easy to change out as I experiment. I've got a bunch of copper tubing, flaring/swaging tool, and other odds and ends on their way from ebay.
I was going to attempt to copy the same copper tube size in my loop roughly as what the original HXs had. Although I was assuming it is 1/4", I should measure to make sure it's not some oddball size. The way it was plumbed from the factory, the hot side is one long 1/4"ish tube, the cold side is two shorter circuits in parallel.
My end goal is to have a machine that will make me a big tank of either hot or cold water during "off peak" hours when power is cheaper, at as high of efficiency as possible. Then I don't need to run heating/cooling equipment during peak electric rates, just circulate the water I already saved up. May also experiment with geothermal, I'm lucky enough to have an extra well I'm not using.