Sorry I didn't see this before. I live in Elizabethtown, maybe 75 miles North of bowling green. For your interior conditions, the toughest time of year for you will be spring and summer, due to the high humidity at night. Even though the outdoor temperature drops at night, the air is no good for supply due to the moisture. During extreme cold snaps, the temperature might plummet to around zero overnight. We have very few subzero cold snaps in the area, ever. The worst one I can remember, it got down to -12 one night during a 3 day cold spell. 2 days later, temps went up, and we had a 50 degree high.
I'm with mejunkhound on this one. Fill your block walls with perlite, vermiculite, cellulose, or something that insulates. Paint on a vapor barrier (inside or outside but not both) and throw some foam and light-colored metal on the roof. This will serve you well to take the cooling needs down during the summer.
As far as the corner seasons go, a dehumidifier may keep the dewpoint down if you are going to try to use outdoor air to provide cooling. Just run your supply air through the dehumidifier on its way in. It will knock at least a few degrees off of the dewpoint. Due to the small size of the building, you need to keep that intake air under control, or the space will quickly be tainted with bad air.
I'm not sure using outdoor supply air would be an advantage during typical spring and summer nights over just extracting the btus out of the building. Let's say you have some cool May air overnight that bottoms out at 58 degrees with a dewpoint of 57. Bringig the dewpoint of that nice cool outdoor air closer to 50 might cost you more than the thousand watts the transmitter is producing. A 5000 btu window air conditioner only uses around 400 watts, running constantly. Of course, there will be plenty of cool, dry days and nights where outdoor air will make for awesome supply air.
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