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Originally Posted by jeff5may
1. The reversing valve I scored is rated at 3 tons max. Will it work with my 1 1/4 ton compressor? If not, what can I do to help it work?
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I think it'll work just fine. It is desirable to keep your refrigerant/oil velocity higher than some minimum level. Too fast and you suffer friction losses, too slow and you risk having your lubricant not staying in suspension properly. In your case just having a short piece of too-big tube will not be a problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff5may
2. What is the best practice in plumbing a reversing valve? Special routing of piping, etc.
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I'm not qualified to answer that. You might try asking at the HVAC TALK forum. But be forewarned that if they think you are a DIY guy, they may not talk to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff5may
3. Should I even bother with a txv? The unit has 2 short cap tubes... how much would I gain going txv on the outside coil versus leaving the cap tubes?
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Your primary advantage is adjustability.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff5may
I would like to get down below freezing on this unit. The txv I just found in this unit is rated to -40*f.
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When you say, "get down below freezing on this unit", I assume you mean that you want to be able to pull energy from the air, when the air temperatures are lower than 32 F. The lower threshold is more likely a function of your refrigerant. If you're using R22 or R290, you can probably 'get below freezing', but not a whole lot more.
Hope this has helped.
Best Luck,
-AC
BTW, I suspect that your weakest link will be the size of your evaporator coil (the part that gets cold and draws heat from the outside air) and also the amount of air your fan will be able to push through the evaporator... but soldier on, brother. You're going to learn a lot and my hunch is that your unit actually will provide you with useful, economic heat. But it can always be improved upon.
BTW#2, what is the character of the soil in your area? What kind of problems do well drillers have there in KY, where you are?