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Old 02-20-14, 01:10 PM   #7
Xringer
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" I'm sure they would probably be able to keep up and be cheaper to run than oil and space heaters if he let them do the work. "


I don't know how many times I've heard that.. Dozens maybe?

Here we go again..
I'm 100% convinced that these particular Sanyos should NOT be allowed to run 3.6 kW.
That's about 15 amps, heading for 20.

When they get up over 15A, the outdoor unit roars for a while, then it will shut itself down.
It normally only takes 40 to 60 seconds.. It's very repeatable..
Just press the button marked "HIGH POWER", or just set the temp up, more than 1 degree.
Moving the setpoint up by 2 or more degrees, triggers "HIGH POWER" mode.

See "High Pressure Switch and OverLoad Relay" at the bottom of this diagram.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...CL/outdoor.jpg

It was during one of those power-hogging cycles, that my first Sanyo
blew a pin-hole in the copper line from the compressor.

So, to prevent a re-occurrence of R410a loss, I hacked together a 10A current limiter..
So, 2.5 kW is about as far as they can go.

My 10A breaker auto-resets after 65 seconds and the Sanyo thinks
it was a grid failure and restarts within 5 minutes.
(The remote transmits every 5 minutes).

Whats the deal with Defrost?

Well, if it's really cold out and a defrost cycle goes on too long, the room
temp could drop 2 degrees! (I'm sleeping and don't notice).
So, a few minutes later when the remote squawks, it's going to ask for
a 2 degree increase..
"HIGH POWER" mode, here we come!!




I've learned my lesson. I also avoid driving my Ford Escape up steep hills
with my foot buried in the firewall..
(I know about the factory defect in the transmission)..
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