The colder the condensate, the more heat you've removed from it.
The V shape keeps the condensate flowing in the direction of
the air where it can have more heat removed. And since it never
gets below freezing at that point, that's the best you can do with
a static mechanical design. A gram of water drained at 0C
has a calorie less eneergy than one drained earlier at 1C.
Don't think it's worth the effort, but people like to think about
maximization.
If your outside temperature doesn't get below freezing, you obviously
don't have a freezing problem.
Here,it rarely gets too far below freezing. I've got about 8F difference
between in and out air on each end. I figured I'd not have to
worry until the outside temp got below 24F. I was wrong.
Over a few days when the temp hovered between 28F and 32F, the
thing became a block of ice. Only explanation I have is positive feedback.
Ice restricts the air flow which increases the differential which
lowers the temperature and causes more ice.
The channels in the coroplast are small enough that surface
tension of water can keep it from dripping out.
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