Actually I misread post 11. I missed the avg part when he said 25 degree heat rise. Everything spiraled from there when I took what he said to be the 25 degree heat rise as the max heat rise required between indoor/outdoor temps. I figured maybe it was one of those coastal region pockets that never sees bad weather. I once talked to someone off of a coaster area in California that said it never really gets blisteringly hot and they rarely see snow. I figured maybe this was similar. I misread the thread. My bad. No reading between the lines was necessary, I misread a post and ran down a hill with it in that post.

Stuart; since you are in WA state, the following has a good spreadsheet that will be helpful ---plus, all the byzantine state 'legislate the value of pi' laws that you will be stuck with if you cannot avoid getting a building permit.

good luck.

WSU Extension Energy Program > Building Efficiency > Energy Code


FWIW - reading, complying, getting the permits, etc. will take (much) more effort and time than actually installing a mini-split......!!!!!

Well.finally got el cheapo mini split installed.Had to hire someone off craigslist to do some of it since been feeling a bit under the weather but total sum still very low. Tried it and to my relief/amazement it actually worked! Now to see if it maintains.The brand,Klimaire, has gotten horrible reviews lately on Amazon;mostly re support.The odd thing to me is that it has a good Toshiba compressor so I suspect the unit itself may be ok but the organization behind it is bad.One of the reviewers in fact said it seems like good engineering has been let down by bad business structure. I guess we'll see..lol

Congrads! I hope you watched the install closely, since these things can be additive. :)

It's been pretty warm around here this summer, so we are using our Sanyo units,
whenever it gets uncomfortable.. => 80% H & => 80F
It doesn't take long to get toasty indoors, when the sun is out..

Good luck with your system..

Quite isn't it.. :)

Yes,very quiet. In fact noise level is the main reason I opted for a mini-split over a window unit;Ive always been very noise sensitive I guess. fwiw I did the "hvac part" of the install ;they did the electrical and heavy work. I used a hair dryer to heat up the evap coils,a cheap vacuum pump, and used nylog blue on the flares and caps;on the other hand I used the traditional manifold gauges and pressure tested with a spritz of the 410a .I guess you might say I tried to make up for lack of funds with a bit of inventiveness. The thing is that contractors are asking $3-5 k for a basic installed unit so they made my diy decision a no-brainer.

Mine are both on right now, I'm sitting in the less than 20 feet away from them, and I don't hear anything at all.
But, when that attic fan is on, it's very noticeable.

If a large amount of units are being sold, you have to take "horrible reviews" with a grain of salt.
Since there might be thousands of happy owners who didn't write a review..

Plus, a product like this one, where people might want to do a large percentage of the work themselves,
You might get some 'pro' installers writing negative reviews, for their own personal reasons.

So far so good. Ive just used it lightly for Cooling;heating will probably be 95% of annual usage.
Fwiw..Id recommend 2 "tricks " for a low budget diy installer:1-Use Nylog blue sealant on all copper connections.Its non contaminating and pro hvac guys on internet swear by it. 2-Use a heat source such as hair dryer to warm up evap coils during vacuum;might help when using cheapo vac pump. ( Unfortunately for x-ringer hair dryer will require a new purchase...lol)

They also have Nylog for non-R410A systems.
Nylog, HVAC Gasket and Thread Sealant.mp4 - YouTube