I got this tank of R134a...
 

I hit up a few rummage sales last week, and while doing that, I found a place giving away some free stuff. Amongst the pile, I found this:

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/attach...1&d=1431357901


My questions are basically these: Does R134 go bad? Can I hook this up to a heat pump and use it? It still has the plastic on the valve top, but its obviously old. It says 30 lbs on it, but it does not feel like 30 lbs. Any idea what is this worth if I would try to sell it?

I do have one project I can use it on. I have a friends car that I'm repairing the A/C on. I started it last year, but it was in fall and we put it off until this spring. I'll end up replacing the high pressure side hose and adding more refrigerant. However, I think I'll have a ton left over. I also have a bunch of new 12oz cans to do this job. Details here:

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/geothe...-line-car.html

It should last "forever" in storage.

Thanks NiHaoMike. I kinda figured it should stay good. Perhaps Ill give it a shot on the car project.

There are some R134a dehumidifiers showing up in thrift stores...

You could use this stuff for some kind of hack project, DWH, etc. and you wouldn't need to worry about R290.

-AC

I believe I saw 30# for about $80 at costco last year. You could weigh it, subtract 3# for your container.

As long as it hasn't been contaminated by someone pumping something else into it you should be all set unless the tank corrodes or the valve leaks, you should be good as long as the gas stays inside. I'm glad this stuff doesn't go bad because there's a 30# container of Dupont Freon22 that I expect will continue to increase in value over time until/unless people stop using R22 as these systems become less common as they get replaced with other units or people start using more retrofit refrigerants but I figure the market will remain there unless the EPA decides to outlaw its use and require a retrofit refrigerant or system replacement.

I believe we sell 134a for $20-$25 a pound here in sask, it's just about the only refrigerant I work with. You should be ok as far as contamination as when your reclaiming you generally use the sturdier dual valve tanks... But if your unsure you can figure it out with a temperature reading, a pressure reading, and this chart
R134a Refrigerant Pressure Temperature Calculator

You can't there is a check valve built in that only allows refrigerant out so these tanks can't be used as recovery tanks.

Walt

Haven't worked with these tanks you speak of, but I have used the little green camping gas bottles for recovery.

In the propane gas bottle, there is a small spring-loaded ball valve that keeps the gas in.

In a propane torch head, there is another one, that is located at the end of the part of the torch head assembly that inserts into the gas bottle. When you screw the torch head down, the tip pushes against the ball in the bottle and makes possible the release of propane.

So I performed a ball removal, and removed the ball in the torch assembly, which allowed me to have two-way access to the little tank when the torch assembly was screwed in.

I also removed the torch head and brazed on a Schrader valve (remove valve core before brazing), so it would be compatible with the rest of my equipment. I still have the torch needle valve, which is important to 'blank off' the canister before you unscrew the torch head, and has also been very useful when I used the gas bottle for other operations.

After my recovery operation, use the needle valve to blank off the bottle, then I unscrew the modified headless torch assembly, and the ball valve that is in the green bottle makes the seal.

It's actually easier to make and use than it is to describe.

But it works great.

-AC

Next question. How do you meter how much refrigerant you've put into a system with a large tank like this? For instance, the Saturn I'm working on calls for 20oz. Could I weigh the tank before/after or is there an easier way?