Gila window films, anyone tried this before?
 

With winter chills (our biggest windows (living room/dining room, side living room, etc.) are all situated on East /West facing, all double-glazed vinyls that were put in as part of the house (house is only 7yrs old). While West facing ones typically get the chills (you can feel the cold descending from the inside glass down, due to poor insulation (non-gas filled, non low-e glass, cheepest run you can get locally as far as double-glazed window's concerned), my front (East facing) living room large glass windows are the worst when it comes to insulating from the winter chills.

After doing much research on-line, I decided to give Gila window film Energy Saving Platinum (LES361) a try, it sez that it can block 50% incoming heat from the outside, while the low-e coating helps in winter heat retention from the inside.

Anyone has experience with Gila films, particularly the Platinum versions (with low-e coating).

I'm going to put this film on the inside of the window, will try first by installing it on the East-facing windows and the 2 little side windows on each side of the main entrance door.

Will see what happens (currently on-route to my mailbox).

Quest

better than my friendly Lowe's representative...
 

I did use some window film on a problem window.

It's been too long for me to remember the brand, but it is metalized and also transparent. As I recall it came in grades of 20% and 40%, 60%, etc.

I bought it as a solution to excessive heat gain during the summer, and it works quite well, and also gives me a measure of privacy.

I hadn't thought of using it as a heat-loss preventer.

I would think that you would want to apply it to the inside of the glass.

I did purchase a double low-E, argon-filled window for my bathroom, against all warnings from my friendly Lowe's representative.

It works very well, much better than my friendly Lowe's representative.

-AC_Hacker

along these lines does anyone know of a frosted, security film that will help with heat loss?

I've got a bunch of 6" off the ground basement windows on the north side of the house that I wanted to put some sort of frosted plastic on to add privacy. Since I was looking at putting a film on them I figured security film would be better looking then burglar bars and If I'm going this route lets gets some heat savings as well.

*Update*

Successfully installed Gila Platinum (LES361) on my living room's double-glazed window: wasted 30% due to creases formation (boy! those films sure is staticky!!!) but was able to complete a 8ft by 6ft area within a reasonable amount of time:

conditions during installations:

-ext. temperature (7C, abnormally warm winter)
-int. temp (approx. 20C)
-relative humidity (approx 45%)

took a better part of 5 ~ 6hrs to complete due to numerous issues (kids constantly budding-in for attention, etc.)

Need wifey's help in handling/peeling off the sheets while squirting the film with Johnson baby wash diluted with water, etc.

The biggest time consuming part was using a card scraper with lint-free sheets to scrape the moisture and air bubbles off of the sheets, which I ended up spending approx. 40% of the time (out of that 5~6hrs) to do....carefully not to scratch the film.

Apparently, Gila Platinum film does have the low-e coating from the inside, which makes the inside (looking outward) seems extra shiny. The reflective coating does what it said RE: reflecting heat from the inside from leaking through the window panes...I was literally sweating from the inside while performing the scraping with the card, and as my body generates heat, the reflection from the low-e coating of the film warms me up substantially (causing me to sweat more)....

the darkening effect works out great (from the outside-->inside, approx. 20% dimming).

In the end: I'm very impressed with this product and I'm going to buy some more as my project progresses... hopefully by doing so will I be able to improve heat retention during winter months to cut down on heating costs and makes my house more efficient both winter and summer time..

(my house is east-west facing so summer heat can be an issue also).

lastly: these films are some serious stuff! I read through their site's FAQ and studied closely, and they did mentioned that cutting blades dull fairly quickly (replace every 10 ft of cutting?!) and it is indeed true! I ruined approx 20% of the film due to dull blade and I learned my lesson very quickly: clip the blade with fresh new point before doing a cut...otherwise, it will rip the film very, very easily (and ruin the whole project).

Good stuff I must say! way recommended for folks who is contemplating in doing something similar to mine (to upgrade no argon-filled, non low-e double-glazed windows with Gila films to improve thermal efficiency)..

Q.

I'd like to see a bit more detail on how you applied this stuff, including the baby wash thing...

I did one small window by myself, and it was very tricky, to say the least.

I was not able to get a wrinkle-free application working solo.

That being said, it does work well and had the thermal reflective properties I had hoped it would.

-AC_Hacker

@AC_Hacker:

The steps I took is pretty much (90%) what the online video steps I followed on Gila site:

Window Film Installation Videos and Application Tips | Gila Residential Window Films

After reading numerous of feedbacks on Amazon.com (where I bought those films) and the cautions from others, I finally worked out the steps that it takes to do it right..

cautions:

-(1) really, be careful when you peel off the film from backing: I managed to wrinkle/introduced creases on the film when I first did solo (w/o the aid of my wifey)...and wasted some film as a result. peel it slowly and don't hesitate to tape the other corner so as to aid with the peeling process...

-(2): I use maybe 1/6 to 1/8 of a cap of baby shampoo per quart of water (squirt bottle size)

-(3): spray the film and the window glass really, really wet before applying the film. Failure to do so (not the end of the world just yet), you can still partially peel off the corner of the film and re-wet the surfaces before trying to squeege the liquid off.

-(3a): I use an OXO squeege I bought from Amazon and that works out well (needs to constantly wet the film surface every time I try to work my squeege across the film surface)

-(4): 2 hrs after the initial squeeging the film to rid of excess liquid and bubbles.....I started to see some small "buldging" from the film due to liquid trapped in between the film and the glass...

for that I basically took the extra effort (with a hard card and lint-free papers) to scrape those bubbles flat..

According to the FAQ section on Gila: the liquid trapped between the film and the glass will dry off in a few days time as the film "cures".

I shall report back with a status update in a few day's time.

Q.

**Update**

After spending a good 3 mnths of rather warm winter (fluctuating, but never below -5C, which is rather unusual) with our front lower living room window tinted with Gila Platinum, I must say that I'm quite impressed with the outcome so far: managed to reflect the heat back into the house (a bathroom infrared lamp test will show you how well it reflects heat back into the house!), yet the solar glare and heat coming in from the outside has been reduced....

Due to kid's spring break last week: I managed to finish 3 more panes: 1 immediately above from the lower story living room (the upper one is our "computer" room for both myself and my wifey, telecommute), a front facing upper window where typically between sunrise and approx. 10:30am, the sun will shine in through there; and then throughout most of the afternoon: reflection from my next door neighbour's window pane into ours which is on the side of this said morning window, heat introduced through this frosted window was immense).

So, we'll see if we get any improvements (or not) over the next few weeks, esp.when sunny spring arrives (weather forecast not so good: overcast over the next 5 days or so).

Lastly: discovered while travelling during spring break that Freddys (meyers) actually carries Gila platinum films also.

Q.

Why not just make a window quilt?

A window film update...

I have had the Gilla window film on a south facing window for about 2 years, the film has provided relief from intense summer sun and radiated heat.

But recently, I have noticed that it is becoming a bit 'milky'... I'm not sure if it is the glue or the film itself.

For the price they charge for the stuff, I would think it would last longer.

I am now looking for another solution.

-AC

Best solution to reduce heat gain:

Install a louvered shutter or put a roll down blind on the OUTSIDE of the window. Once the light has passed the insulation envelope, its too late, you have heat inside the house. You must think about stopping the heat BEFORE it passes thru the insulation envelope.


You could also use a pergola or plant a deciduous tree!

All good points!

-AC

further update?
 

Nice thread. Thanks! Any further update? What cause the "milky" look? Did it get worse? Was it a defect or can this deterioration be expected as part of the normal aging of the product?

@rhizomatic:

No "milky" effect happened to any of my filmed windows since Feb 2011. Still looks just as good as day 1.

Q.

Awesome. Thanks. was going to buy some and experiment. This makes-up my mind.

I put the film on the upper window and also the lower window. The upper window is hit by full sun, the lower is partially shaded. In my situation, it is the lower film that is getting milky... not so much that I can't see out, but enough to look milky. An yes, it does seem to be getting more milky. I've probably had them on for 5 years or so.

Good luck with your experiment, I had a very difficult time getting wrinkle free adhesion working alone.

-AC

I had also applied it but it did not gives that good result that is expected.then i tried another technique known as nansulate insulation coating techniques.this technique based on nanotechnology.its a insulation that prevent the outer heat to transfer to inner side and keep the inside cool.

You haven't been cleaning that lower window pane with any window cleaners containing ammonia, have you? Ammonia is commonly used to remove window tinting films in the automotive world. I've always wondered why some car tinting jobs turn to a bubbly mess while others stay perfectly fine for 10+ years. I suspect it has to do with owners not realizing ammonia based window cleaners break down the adhesive. :rolleyes:

*update*

It's been 3+yrs since my first application of Gila film on my various sun-facing window (panes), and they have been holding up very, very well so far.

Other than the master bathroom (1 of them corners slightly peeled off, around 1/4 " corner) due to rather frequent moisture exposure, which at this stage I wouldn't bother with them until summer comes and I'll get an exacto knife and trim it off carefully, all others are doing extremely well. No milky results, no film turning yellow, nada.

Good luck on those who are pursuing this direction.

BTW: I too, used ammonia-based cleaner to perform the initial grime/grease stripping. My difference is that during application, I made the glass pane surface very, very wet with water spray mixed with baby shampoo before applying the film, and then with a hard plastic card and some mechanic's blue paper towel: I scrape the inside of the film to rid of the trapped bubbles, until the film is fairly clear of big bubbles. All smaller bubbles, as the film dry and the moisture trapped within the film and the glass pane, will eventually go away and smooth out the film.

Q.

During the time I was running a "pimp my ride" shop, I became very good at removing, repairing, and installing window tint. Here are a few tips and tricks:

The cheaper films in most every brand are only good for used car dealers and house flippers. They're basically just dyed cigarette cellophane. Only good for two to three years before they're visibly faded or wrinkled. Very transparent to heat. Not very good for crash test dummies or stopping burglars, either. All those cars with the pink and purple tint most likely got the cheap stuff. Go buy a big pack of single-edge razor blades and a little yellow carrier for them, as well as a few snap-blade knives or exacto knives. Bondo applicator set assortment pack will work ok, but the real cards work even better.

The metallic and low-e lines of tint are the best heat reflectors for the money. They go on much easier as well. When cared for normally (no comet cleanser or windex, bleach, ammonia, oven cleaner, scrubbing bubbles, lime-away, etc.), they will last a decade or two before showing their age. On windows sheltered from daily sunburn, they can last much longer. Just clean with dish soap or baby shampoo and water.

Before you try your hand at a large project, practice on something small. No matter what brand or quality level product you buy, this stuff is flimsy like wrapping paper and charges with static when you separate it from its backing. It creases and tears if you look at it wrong. Tape your edges every foot or so. On many occasions, i tore the edges of the tint merely by separating it from its backing. Practice cutting corners and curves on something that is worthless first.

Make sure you have an acceptable environment to install the film. This means two things:
1. spotlessly clean the area within a few feet of where you are applying it. anything oily, greasy, grassy, rusty, dusty, hairy, or dirty will find its way onto your job.
2. NO WIND! any drafts or wind gusts that happen while you are trying to trim or apply the tint will be deadly. Even if you don't crease the film, something hairy or dusty will appear shortly afterwards.

On many occasions, I had to clean the windows three or four times to get them spotless when prepping for a job. First wash, use simple green or purple power. Second wash, use denatured alcohol, acetone or xylene. Third wash, use bottled or distilled water with soap from a new pump spray bottle. Between washes, use only new squeegees and microfiber cloths to scrub or dry the glass. Respray immediately before applying tint. Newspaper, paper towels, terry cloth, etc all have lint and fibers in them. Some of my guys used super shammys or shamwows to scrub with.

Application is very similar to putting up wallpaper, except you can see through the film (spotlessly clean factor). Just like wallpaper, you will have to trim some of it after it is up, no matter how hard you try to mock it beforehand, Best bet is to closely pre-trim a tight corner or the hardest spot to get to, and follow a single edge from there. Cut everything else out roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch too large. Roll the tint up on a dowel or broomstick like a poster, tint facing out, so that your cut edge goes on last.

Scotch blue is my tape. 3m green or gold also works wonders. In a pinch, frog tape or post-its will do the job. DO NOT USE duct tape or black electrical tape or regular masking tape, they stick too hard!

For large, square or rectangular windows, just leave the tint on the roll it came packaged with. Cut the tint on the roll, 1/2 to 1 inch longer than your window is wide. The less you have to handle the stuff, the better. Wet, squeegee, rewet the window. Tape the tint at end of the roll after roughly lining up the edge against the glass. Separate the leading edge slowly so it doesn't pucker or rip, pulling the backing away from the tape so it and the tint stick to the wet glass.

Once you have the leading edge separated from the backing, and the tint taped at the leading edge, make sure the glass is good and wet before you peel off any more backing. If you have a helper, have them hold the roll while you pull the backing and spray. if not, pull backing with one hand, spray with the other, and haul arse so you don't drop the roll. Don't worry too much about bubbles, just make sure the tint goes on wet glass without wrinkles.

When the backing is all off, you can make minor adjustments by sliding the tint and peeling and resticking tape. Again, be gentle and don't crease the tint. Once your leading edge is in position, you can anchor the tint by LIGHTLY running a squeegee or microfiber from the edge towards the middle in a few spots.

Before you cut your edges, lightly squeegee the large puddles and bubbles out along the uncut edges you are about to cut. You can use a little soapy water on top of the tint to help things slide better. The tint should be anchored enough that it doesn't easily slide around, but not so well that it is free of visual distortions.

When the edges are trimmed to size, they will naturally stick to the wet glass underneath. Don't try to sop up the glue water that comes out. Change blades often to avoid cutting jagged edges or making creases. Use a card or straightedge to make long, straight cuts if you need to. We used the dollar store stainless rulers with the cork backing when we had to. They sell french curves that work well also. Most importantly, DON"T SAW YOUR TINT! the urge is strongest in tight corners; resist it at all cost!

Once the film is cut to size, begin wiping bubbles and puddles from the middle out LIGHTLY. If you push too hard, the tint will anchor against the window, trapping what is in there. Repeat the process and let it sit for a few minutes. Come back and inspect the job, again wiping LIGHTLY the little bitty bubbles. Either go have a drink or peel the tape off carefully now.

Keep this in mind: no matter how good of a job you do, with window tint someone can find inconsistencies if they look hard enough. Unless the window tint is put on in a vacuum chamber clean room by a robot (like LCD panels), the job can never be perfectly flawless.

I did 3 windows with the gila platinum peel and stick temporary last spring. They were the only ones that claimed a low e ratting. Happy with the overall effect, less heat. I couldn't get the last couple of inches from the rolls to lay down perfectly. This was okay, these were bedroom windows behind roman shades. I don't think I could get this nice enough for the front picture windows to not bug me.