I just read this whole thread straight through.

It's interesting how thoughts have changed a bit from the original thread in 2008 until today, at the end of 2014.

Seems like the exact same conversation we all had going from incandescent to CFL.

In rough order:
1) This is an over-priced novelty
2) I don't like the color of these new bulbs
3) They work differently with dimmers
4) I don't like how fast/slow they start
5) I guess the price is coming down
6) I guess these are about the same as the old bulbs now
7) I can get them in different colors? Cool!
8) Why didn't I buy these sooner!
9) We call these "normal bulbs".

I just recently changed my whole how over to LED.
The month after that, I had one of my lowest electric bills EVER. (And that was coming from the whole house being CFL before LED.)

Find the bulbs you like. Buy them on sale. Buy them in bulk.

My current favorite light bulb is A TCP brand 60-watt equivalent (8.7 watt) 5000K color temperature, medium base bulb. The color is a nice "sunny day" daylight. They are bright, they come on instantly, they don't get hot, and they use little electricity.

Buy them in a six-pack from Home Depot for $6 per bulb. 22 year life-span.
HOME DEPOT TCP BULB LINK

Their incandescent color temperature bulb is nice too, although it's a little on the warm side at 2700K. (The photographic standard is 3200k.)

The reflector style bulbs for can lights are available at a similar price, and I've been using those as well.

Also, check your local hardware stores. They are starting to have "Sale Wars" over LED bulbs. Ace had lots of bulbs for $6 each and I saw a pile at Menards for the same.

Just about the only place in my house now that ISN'T LED is the appliance bulbs in the oven and the clothes dryer. Both those locations, the light is used minimally, and can get to temperatures that would melt plastic LED bulbs.

PS: I also just the other day found out about "Direct Replacement" 48" LED tubes. Sylvania/Osram has an LED tube that just pops in place of a T8 fluorescent. You don't have the modify the fixture at all! (No more snipping out the ballast and rewiring!)
It's VERY bright, and the 4100K color looks much nicer than the 4100K color I've ever seen on fluorescents. It might be that it's missing the notorious fluorescent "green-spike".
http://www.menards.com/main/p-2407785-c-7482.htm

I just tried some LED replacement MR16 bulbs using an existing 12 volt transformer. They flickered so much I had to revert the the previous bulbs. Is this typical? Faulty bulbs? Should I have changed the transformer?

We needed to replace some old under-counter kitchen lighting.
Got two of these at Lowes Shop Utilitech 12-in Plug-In Under Cabinet LED Light Bar at Lowes.com

They have a touch button to turn them On.
One more touch is half power and a second is OFF.
http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...01992434lg.jpg <-- bottom end has slave socket

There is a link cable (included) to plug a 2nd (slave) lamp into the master lamp.

I installed one under a counter and my wife loves it. It's out of sight and is very easy to operate.

I had a problem with the second one..
I wanted it higher and to be operated by a remote switch..
We use an IR motion sensor to control this one. Wouldn't work, because of the touch switch.. (default is off at power up).

So, I reversed the AC input. Plugged the power into the Output connector.
The output meant to power a slave lamp. Worked fine! :D

It comes on when we walk up to the sink.. Goes off after we leave the area.

The specs on the package are at odds with the site spec.
800 lumens
11.5 watts

Not cheap, but provide excellent light..

Measurement of under-counter w/o remote switching

On 11.4W
Low 3.0W
Off 0.6W

Brilliant idea , wiring the motion activated controller into the ballast itself / socket. I want to add motion detection to my bathroom light and after thinking on it .. possibly the outside doorstep light.

After you get older, you won't like your bathroom light coming on automatically.
Especially if it's really bright, and your eyes are adjusted for 3AM sleeping mode..

The kitchen sink light is great in the winter, because not much outside light gets into the kitchen.
We've been using a little 20w fluorescent tube in the sink overhead and it didn't like
being switched on and off 30 times a day.. I hope the LED PSU will do better.

The under-cabinet (over-counter?) light was also a really old 20w fluorescent tube.
It was hard to turn on and off, and wasn't really located in the best location..
Now it's very easy to get to and it's right over the prime work area.

There was once a window above the sink. Now it's just an opening to the den.
So, I used the top frame of the old window, as my light mount.
It provides pretty good light and isn't hard on the eyes when getting a drink late-nite..

PS:
When I installed these lights, I also installed some strips of silver (metal) tape on each side
of the LED arrays. The tape reflects any light that would have fallen on the wood, down into the room..

http://ecorenovator.org/forum/attach...eds-ledkit-jpg

I know of a house with 4 editions on it every doorway is at a different level even the kitchen is a add on, funny what happens when the home handyman is given free range !

The house was once a tiny loggers bunkhouse ..

A transformer running on the 120V AC is going to put out 12V AC, and that will cause 60Hz flicker. You need an actual power supply to get 12V DC. It has to have a diode bridge, and a capacitor and a transistor, etc. in order to have smooth DC.

The lights are intended to run on 12 volts AC not DC. The original bulbs were OK in that. So are you saying that in order to use LED bulbs I need to change the supply to DC? Are there any other issues to be aware of in doing that?

@SDMCF:

would you please help identify the following:

(1) your original transformer, the secondary (output) side, is it supposedly 12V DC or 12V AC

(2)the LED MR16 type bulb, is it a brand name unit or

My hunch is that the transformer (supposedly 12V AC) whereas the MR16 type LED replacement bulb maybe running in half-wave rectification configuration (the cheepest means to save diodes, and still get the rectification job done) or the bulb circuit is intermittently faulty (driver part may be faulty).

Ive seen some very crude Xmas LED lights configuration (typical LED flickering) due to half-wave rectification used (to save cost on the manufacturing side). Hope this is not your issue.

Q.

Amazing how far LED's have come. My employer has applied to the local energy supplier for a commercial program to change all the lighting in his hog barns to LED. Payback period is quick.