Yes, you can use totes to hold that water, but while you are filling them, they are changing temp due to the surroundings.

Why not use a simple inexpensive flowmeter? Then you just measure the fluid temperature (easy to do) and record the water flow rate.



1 2" Female Thread 0 2 2 0 GPM 1 7 LPM Water Liquid Inline Flowmeter Rotameter | eBay


Steve

Will this expansion valve work for what I want to do?
Sporlan Thermostatic Air Conditioning Expansion Valve FV 1 2 C R22 | eBay
It's rated at 1/2 ton.

I'd like to just setup everything with flared connections to begin with so I can change out parts easily while I experiment. It should be super simple plumbing - Compressor > Condenser coil > Filter > TxV > Evap coil > Compressor again.


Initially there won't be anything flowing but refrigerant. I know the water will stratify, but I would like to test that too. When I add some water pumps, that would be nice to add as well.

I could estimate the BTU loss through the drum by filling it up with warm water, letting it sit for an hour, and measure the temp.

That valve there is the i/c standard, wholesale, ultra common, generic replacement part from Parker. It will dismantle and can swap guts with many other valves in the line. With the "c charge" powerhead on it, the bottom of its control range is about 0 degF. It will work awesome for a water-based hx.

The measurement method you propose will work well if your vessel is highly insulated. Otherwise, with a half ton of capacity, too much heat will conduct directly out of the vessel and too much water will evaporate (if open container) to force anywhere near an accurate temperature change. I used a 75 gallon fish tank to heat a few rooms this way with a repurposed dehumidifier.

I'm actually curious to find out how much heat/cold a 55 gallon drum will lose, I wonder how well they will work as a radiator with a big thermal mass. I have both plastic and coated steel closed head drums. I'll snake the 1/4" copper HX through the 2" bung hole.

I also have a 50 gallon insulated water heater tank to use when I start playing with pumps.

The question you ask is a test question in high school physics classes. Google is your friend, my dear sir.

Huh? I didn't ask a question. No math will ever tell you the heat loss of a given vessel more accurately than actually testing in the real world.

Ok, I thought you had been asking questions since you started the thread. My mistake. I was just passing time waiting for some pics. Off to the lab it is then!

Wait a minute... do we have anything working yet to take measurements of? I haven't seen anything real yet. I can't be bothered... I have to finish insulating a garage.
http://ecorenovator.org/forum/attach...g-imag0059-jpg

Only about capillary tubing vs expansion valves. That's what this thread is about.

LOL. Well, to be honest I don't owe anybody pictures of anything. Like I said before I'm waiting on a long list of random parts to arrive from ebay and other places. You don't just go down to home depot and ask for an expansion valve, copper swaging tool, refrigerant filters, propane>SAE fittings, vacuum pump, etc.

Bump
 

Has your plan gone anywhere? Did you find parts/tools? Haven't heard anything.

If you don't have a local plumbing/HVAC supply house locally, the stuff you seek can be had between home despot and your Favorite Local Auto Parts Store. Advance and autozone loan out flare tools and vacuum pumps (deposit required - keep it forever if you want to) and have brake lines, nuts, unions, hoses, benders, etc, that will work well for small capacity systems.

Don't tell the man, but I have used prefab brake lines for these experiments with good results. No fabrication required, just grab the length needed and assemble. FLAPS flare nuts and unions are cheaper than the other places. Actually, the "double flare" bends will handle higher peak pressure than common flare ends (so they say). There is a whole plan-o-gram section (usually behind the parts counter) of generic hoses, tubes, fittings, adapters, o-rings, etc. in all kinds of sizes and lengths just waiting to be picked.

I guess I am lucky to live in the county seat city. There are 3 tier 1 automotive manufacturers located within 15 minutes driving distance of me, so there are lots of supply shops in town. Big dogs are Johnstone supply, Fastenal, air/hydro/power, the parker store, airgas, and half a dozen little guys. Even so, I still source lots of tidbits from eBay and surplus city due to the dirt cheap pricing. If I get in a pinch during an experiment, I will try the FLAPS (advance bought out carquest and has rewards) before Johnstone. They don't hassle me like the other AC shops do.