|
menaus2's 240sqft Hydronic Thermal collector
4 Attachment(s)
Hi All! It's been a while since I've documented a major project on the forum, so I'll be starting from the planning process going forward.
Last year I installed a 36sqft drainback collector with a 100gal. storage tank on our house. I havn't gotten around to posting the details yet, but hopefully they'll be forthcoming. Suffice to say it works great (roughly 5,000 btu/hr), except our hot water usage keeps it in the 60-90F range. So, it's time to expand big time! I have a woodshed about 100' away from the house with roughly 720 sqft of wall available, my propane furnace also has a plenum water-air heat exchanger from the wood boiler we removed available as well. So I would like a system that can keep the solar tank above 120 often enough to kill bacteria problems and also use the furnace for space heating when there is excess heat being produced. The collector design should be freeze-proof and have the option to be expanded in the future in a modular way. I was inspired by Scott Davis' 194sqft pex collector and will also use a gycol loop with copper coils in the tank. I am looking to improve upon the design by using a manifold in the collector with 3 pex-al-pex runs to get better flow, I also plan to use twinwall polycarbonate sheets to get higher collector temps for better heat exchange. I still have a lot of details to work out that are beyond my experience: relays & pumps and integrating that with the furnace. As well as sizing the collector copper coil heat exchangers in the tank. I've attached a mock-up of the collector and a possible expansion of it in the future. Also a materials list and cost estimation. https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...9&d=1581800895 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...0&d=1581800895 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...1&d=1581800895 |
2 Attachment(s)
Also some rough diagrams of the system as well as my mostly uninformed wiring for the space heating controls. :thumbup:
https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1581801509 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1581801509 |
The ground will still be frozen for a few months yet, but I'm going to start with the inside work. First on the list are the heat exchanger coils in my 100 gal. tank. I already have a 60' 1" copper coil for the DHW preheat. That leaves about 24" diameter circle by 25" height inside the coil to work with. Since I potentially have a lot of collector area and want to be able to work around say a 10F delta T, I want to maximize surface area and keep a pressure drop low as possible. I picked up 4 coils of 50' x 1/2" OD refrigeration copper to accomplish this. I think 4 coils in parallel should leave a similar area as the 1" pex pipe. 1/2" cu should be easier to bend in the confines space. Values to calculate the heat transfer are hard to find. Engineering toolbox gives anywhere from 50-200btu per sqft of pipe surface area per degree f... hmmm....
|
6 Attachment(s)
Heat exchanger coils are wound in the tank. It wasn't easy hanging over into the tank for a few hours, but it got easier as I worked my way higher in the tank. I had a 24" diameter by 30"H space to work with. The 1/2" OD refrigeration line was easy to bend, and I only had a couple spots where there was a minor dimple from bending it too tight. I used 14ga copper electric wire to space the coils & keep everything tidy.
From what I've researched with wort chillers used for brewing, it's a good idea for coils to be separated into different "zones". The first coil is laid out as a disk at the bottom of the tank. The second is a cylinder at the bottom half, then the third coil in a similar way above that. The fourth is a tighter coil in the middle from bottom to top. Currently I'm building the manifolds out of PEX and will attach it to the lines with flare fittings. With the tight space it should be a challenge! https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1583161305 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1583161305 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...7&d=1583161305 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...8&d=1583161305 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...9&d=1583161305 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...0&d=1583161305 |
Quote:
I have a similar project planned for the summer, but so far my tank layout ideas have concentrated on improving stratification. |
The layout is trying to make the best out of limited space. I built the tank last year with only Domestic Hot Water in mind. The tank is only 100 gallons, and the temperature probes have never shown much stratification anyways. If you're starting from scratch, I would recommend a bigger tank & maybe look at PVC stratification tubes (I think that's what they're called?).
As far as my setup the idea is that splitting it up into "zones" the hotter section of pipes are in different areas of the tank, so more exposure to cold section of tank and more even heating. In wort chillers it cools the entire bucket faster so same idea but with heating. I also feel like putting it in zones was the easier option to wind the coils. If you have a stratified tank, putting the coils in the cold bottom would be most efficient. At least that's my $0.02 :) |
6 Attachment(s)
Got the heat exchanger coils inside the tank completed. I connected the refrigeration type copper tubing with flare fittings into the diy manifold. Although it looks like some sort of brain interface from the matrix, it gets the job done. I added some ball valves in case I need to purge air from that spot.
I also plumbed in the glycol reservoir and pump. I used a cooler that is about the right size & has a nice gasket on the lid. The pump is an off-brand 007 Taco, with 3-speed settings & high head I figure close enough. I haven't seen any issues Scott Davis has with his open reservoir as far as oxygen breaking down his glycol. If the iron pump will cause corrosion issues with copper is another question mark. I figure with easy access to the reservoir, this should be easy to monitor & switch the pump with a brass one later if necessary. I also picked up a majority of the other materials now that the spring thaw has started. I decided to purchase premade underground insulated pex pipe used in outdoor wood boilers. Wrestling pex through 120' of drain tile wasn't worth the few hundred dollar difference of buying it done right. I was fortunate there is a insulated pipe manufacturer within a reasonable drive to pick it up. As far as the collector goes, I decided to go with treated 2x6s with a full 4x8 space inside. 1/2" Treated plywood flush on the back, 1" polyiso sandwiched in the middle, then 1/2" osb on the inside for mouting the collector pipes etc... I also decided to go with 4 runs of pex-al-pex inside the collector instead of 3 to maximize heat collection. With the full 48" height, I can use 6" spacing :D Major questions going forward: 1. Collector temperature probe placement? 2. How to control a pump for running water through the furnace plenum heat exchanger? I would like to have it only turn on when the tank is over 130f and when a dedicated room thermostat is satisfied. Two 24vac thermostats in series is no problem, but how do I relay the pump & furnace fan simultaneously? I would obviously like to still use the propane furnace to heat, but controlled by a different thermostat set far lower. https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...1&d=1583899950 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...2&d=1583899950 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1583899950 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1583899950 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1583899950 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1583899950 |
Hi menaus2;
I would like to hear how much the collector costs? I suspect electric PV panels cost much less for an equivalent system. Your 5000btu/hr = about 1465W of power. PV panels are quite cheap today. It is easy to get them for about $0.30/W for a PV panel cost of about $440. You can also get cheap used panels for about $0.10/W. Does it make sense to use hydronic collectors today when PV is so cheap? redrok redrok@redrok.com |
Hi Redrok!
According David Poz (great youtube channel btw). Solar is more efficient per dollar & solar thermal is more efficient per area. I think he used commercial collectors so idk how a diy panel compares in terms of cost, but we'll sure find out! I'm estimating somewhere between $10.00 and $16.00 per sqft. Besides costs, I want to maximize the use of the area on the shed it's mounted on & get the most heat out of it. I would like to keep space for a PV array elsewhere dedicated for electric in the future. PV cost & storage will only come down with time so it makes sense to postpone that until later. Reducing my electricity usage is the lower hanging fruit on the electric side. Mostly though I just like building thermal systems & I have experience with it. For other people & their goals/ constraints PV heat might make more sense for them. |
4 Attachment(s)
With a good portion of the inside plumbing done, I've shifted to working on the collector frame. I was able to scramble & get all the materials before the Beer Virus cases started taking off so I guess I'll have extra time to work on it.
The frame is treated 2x6s wraped around 1/2" treated plywood sheets and secured with brackets. This way I can use full twinwall polycarbonate sheets for the glazing. It's a lot of work, but it will be well worth hauling less wood for years to come! :D https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1584853250 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1584853250 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1584853250 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...7&d=1584853250 |
10 Attachment(s)
The world slows down, but construction continues! Framing has been completed. The shed wall isn't exactly plumb, but it's level. Good enough! I siliconed (black silicone) the wood to keep moisture out on back side. Next is the 1" polyiso board (staggered). Then pine 3/4"x 1.5"s to finish the glazing support. Glazing support is set back 1/2" to allow the polycarbonate to be siliconed on the outside. I put 2" strips of polyiso on the inside edge of the frame to finish up the insulation. Currently working on putting up the 1/2" OSB panels over the polyiso. All the piping/ collector fins will be eventually stapled to the OSB.
The underground insulated pex I got is the reflexive bubble wrap inside of drain tile style. Some online sources point out they can lose a ton of heat if water gets into the pipe. Does anyone have experience with wood boiler pipe like this? I was thinking I might install sock drain tile pipe beneath it just incase the pipe ever got punctured to keep it dry enough. Possibly a drain hole at the low point of the underground boiler pipe just to give the water an escape route in case water ever did get in? https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...9&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...0&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...1&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...2&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...7&d=1585279404 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...8&d=1585279404 |
5 Attachment(s)
Had nice weather yesterday before rain moved in, so prioritized making sure the OSB was protected enough since it shouldn't get wet & I don't have plastic laying around. Sealed up all the seams with silicone & painted over with flat black spray paint.
For additional protection, I used aluminum facia trim for a roof. Scrap block pieces from the glazing support gave it a little pitch. Screwed it down with roofing screws that were laying around. When things dry up, installing the pex-al-pex pipe & absorber fins will be next. Also, looking at the actual dimensions & depending how I do the glazing the collector area is looking more like 118-125 square feet. https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...0&d=1585405794 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...1&d=1585405794 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...2&d=1585405794 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1585405794 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1585405794 |
10 Attachment(s)
Construction continues into the slow tedious phase of collector pipe and aluminum absorbers. For the back of the absorber I stapled up 3" wide strips of aluminum coilstock. Not sure on the thickness, but good enough I suppose. 8 strips by about 56 feet so about 112 sqft of material.
I'm currently in the middle of stamping out the absorber find & installing them. Helps break up the monotony of either task :) . The front absorber plates are cut with power shears into 6" x 24" blanks. Then my sophisticated stamping process consisting of a wooden form, 5/8" steel rod, junk boards, mallet and a post pounder. With ever 200 to make total, needless to say it will take a while. But when the weather is nice, I can install the absorbers. The pex-al-pex doesn't need a perfect level, just a few beads of silicone for good contact & some narrow crown staples does the trick. Just a matter of time, since this is probably the single most time consuming step of construction. https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...7&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...8&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...9&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...0&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...1&d=1586013520 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...2&d=1586013520 |
Its coming along great!
How much work is it to stamp out those heat spreaders? |
Great progress.
|
Quote:
|
3 Attachment(s)
Absorber fin installation continues! A little over halfway done. I've spray painted completed sections to get an idea what it'll look like finished (as well as a motivation boost!) Straightening out the pex-al-pex takes time and patience. I'm doing my best to keep them equal lengths so the flow is balanced between the 4 separate runs. It sure takes a lot of silicone!
https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1586619736 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1586619736 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...7&d=1586619736 |
3 Attachment(s)
Absorber fins and painting are done! I did my best to make everything an equal length, but I'm sure each run will be off a bit.
Does anyone have an idea how much difference in flow there might be between the 4 loops or how much this could impact performance? Say if there were 6-9" differences in loop lengths? Extra valves & gauges to balance things perfectly could add up. Maybe adding ball valves & use an IR camera with glazing off to see imbalances? I'm guessing higher flow in one loop would show up cooler than the others? Anyways, the next step is digging a trench for the piping. I will be laying draintile underneath the wrap style insulated pipe to protect it from getting water inside of it. It will have the added benefit of keeping the yard & basement a little dryer! https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...8&d=1587221449 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...9&d=1587221449 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...0&d=1587221449 |
It looks like your setup is roughly 62 feet (750 inches) long? So, plus or minus 9 inches isn't going to matter much at all. 9/750 = .012, so 1% flow difference. Not worth any worry.
It look awesome by the way! |
Quote:
Since my last post, I've gotten the underground pipe in (mostly). It was easily a week of digging and probably the hardest part of the whole project so far since it was mostly done with just a shovel. Rocks are not fun! Basically I dug down 28"-30" made sure everything had a slight slope with a level. I then laid landscape fabric along the bottom of the trench. Over the fabric I laid about 1" layer of washed river rock. Over that base layer of rock I laid a 4" socked perforated corrugated pipe. Then filled the pipe up to its top with more river rock. The extra landscape fabric in the trench folded over the top over the rock & pipe like a big ol' burrito. Theeeeen, my corrugated underground boiler pipe laid over the drain pipe and I buried by a few inches with some of the nicer soil. I put some strips of 250 psi XPS polyiso over that. I figured it would add some insulation & strength to protect the boiler pipe. The rest of the trench I could backfill with rockier and rougher soil. At the lowest part of the boiler pipe before it pokes up near the house, I put a bunch of holes in the outside of it in a 1-2 foot section. That style of boiler pipe is basically useless if it fills with water. By keeping the surround soil dry with the drainage below it, then sloping it to a drained low point, it should allow any water that eventually works it's way in to be naturally drained through those holes. Boy I really hope it does, because it was a lot of work to dig it up again! In retrospect, I would've gone with thermopex. What remains: 1. Hooking up pipes & run sensor wires 2. Run pump & check for leaks 3. Wiring controls 4. Attach glazing 5. The separate pump & controls for the furnace heat exchanger (less important as we're coming out of the heating season). 6. Make things pretty, maybe cut down a few trees if they block the panel too much. |
What is your boiler pipe made of?
|
6 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Attached are some pictures of how the boiler pipe is roughly connected to the panel & the house. I had to get a little creative running the last bits above ground. Always room for improving the insulation. I used a scrap piece of 4" draintile to give it some protection. I'll find some way to hide it eventually. One the pictures shows the temperature sensor. I placed it in the middle of the panel to run off the air temperature inside. I can always adjust the temperature delta from the controller. I think it's at 50F delta between the collector & tank for on and 40F for off. I used speaker wire pulled through the boiler pipe. The pipe had a plastic twine run through it when I bought it for pulling wires. Wire pulling lubricant really helped! Getting closer! https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...1&d=1588772187 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...2&d=1588772187 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1588772187 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1588772187 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1588772187 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1588772187 |
7 Attachment(s)
The battle station is armed and fully operational! Seriously though, I got the glazing on got water flowing the past few days and did a test run today since there were periods of clear sky.
I filled the reservoir with plain water & took a long time fiddling with it to get the water all the way through the loop & work out the bubbles. Like hours. I ended up using a shop vac of the outlet side to help it through. Had a section of pex I forgot to cinch. I think the real key was clearing out the bubbles in the short section of pipe before the pump so it could create enough pressure. No leaks that I could find. I'll have to keep an eye on the revevoir level for a while as I'm sure it will continue working out bubbles. I'll eventually add the glycol to the reservoir & dump the water as it comes out till it runs glycol. No big rush since it's for freeze Protection. The glazing installation was easy. They fit right into place and connected to the next one with polycarbonate connectors over the 2x4 glazing supports. I used gray roofing screws every 2 ft horizontally and every 1ft vertically. I then sealed the edges on the outside with black silicone caulk. Running it today a few take aways: 1.The temperature didn't get over 100f, the high sun angle and the big tree shading it don't help. 2. I think my vertical collector sees higher temps due to more air temperature stratification height. The horizontal shape seems to give lower temps but they don't swing as much. 3. I'm really impressed by the heat exhange to the tank. I adjusted the controller to turn the pump on with a delta T to 16f and worked fine compared to the other collector that had to have a delta T of 50f to work similarly. I got 14f tank temp increase over the day of 100 gal, so 11,662 btu. 4. I think the vertical, wide profile will really help with preventing stagnation in the summer. With that tree perhaps too well. It might have to be cut down & maybe some reflective material on the ground. I think in the Winter & lower sun angles it will be a real beast. :) https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1589087217 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1589087217 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1589087217 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1589087217 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...7&d=1589087217 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...8&d=1589087217 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...9&d=1589087217 |
Over the past couple of days the tank never really got above 80F. The sun angle is pretty high and the big tree by the panel was starting to block it especially around mid-day... so I cut it down in the morning. It was a clear cloudless day. The tank temperature started out at about 69F, by 6pm it was at 110F!!! This the hottest I've ever seen the tank and equates to 34,000 BTU. Excited to see what performance the rest of the year brings :)
|
Wow, quite the improvement. How big is the tank again?
|
If the tank is still the same, it's 100 gallons. Minus the heat exchanger circuit volumes.
|
1 Attachment(s)
Yup.
Just and update of the performance. We've had a few nice sunny days with minimal clouds. The highest its gotten is 114F. The tank returns to about mid 60's to 70F after about a day or two since we have pretty high hot water usage. I've been somewhat disappointed with the performance when the sun is so high in the sky. I must say the absorbers in the panel are very effective at cooling the panel. I had some scrap galvanized metal roofing laying around, so I'm working on turning them into simple reflectors in front of the panels. It should be simple to remove them if necessary. https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...3&d=1589809383 |
Sounds like a nice idea to try.
|
So its been about 3 months since my last update, and overall the collector has worked great over the summer and have made some refinements also.
1. The reflectors have really helped out with the high sun angle. 120f-130f for the tank an 150s for the collector are pretty common temps. I've recently gotten the tank above 140f recently even with hot water usage. I'll probably keep them on if they can survive the snow load. 2. My vertical smaller collector i just plugged in so it runs when the larger collector does. Simple & extra btus. 3. The system now runs on solar PV. I ran conduit from my small off grid solar system upstairs into the basement with its own dedicated gfci. I was using the PV system to run my satellite internet & office, but the battery is only 1 kwh. Not enough storage for cloudy days and a lot of power not getting used when sunny. The production and consumption is very well balanced and my battery is happier. The pumps take about 220w of power to run. The temp controller about 1-2w. 4. I checked out the tank with my SEEK thermal camera. The storage tank shows hardly any heat loss it works great. I did see a lot of heat loss through the pipes heating the storage tanks though even with the foam pipe insulation. I've started adding another layer of pipe insulation by using 2 sticks "clamshelled" around it and duct taped. Big improvement in heat loss and red green would be proud. Before heating season I'm planning on: 1. Replacing the water circulation fluid with 10 gallons of glycol still stashed in the shed somewhere. 2. Pumps, piping & Contols to integrate the tank with my forced air furnace plenums. Really interested to see how it will work for space heating. I considered radiant heating, but its more than I want to take on right now. It would be pretty easy to modify it to radiant in the future. |
Great update. I'm very glad to hear its working out well. I am interested to see how much heat you can get out of it in winter.
|
Iam curious, where did you decide to place the temperature sensors in the storage tank?
|
Quote:
|
I do have one issue that has happened twice now that is stumping me that I'm sure you guys would have some insight on.
I've had water come out of the circulation resevoir to the point the the highest pipe dumping into it has a slight air gap when I find it. There are two holes on the side of the cooler resevoir where the pipes go in that were not sealed. It looks like the water leaked out of those holes, but they are 4-5 inches above where the pipes end. Somehow the water level rose enough to drain out, but then later the water level dropped below the discharge pipe. Then i. Guessing allowing air to enter the loop. When I noticed it today the motor was so hot it was starting to melt the insulation on it! I rechaged the loop and the pump still works fine. No sign of any leaks anywhere else. It worked solid for 2 weeks straight since the first time it happened. To "fix" it I extended the pipes another 4-5 inches to the bottom of the resevoir. I also sealed the pipe holes with silicone. My theory is that whatever caused the water level to rise that much will have more room to expand before leaking out. Then when it contracts back down it will have to go nearly to the bottom unit the siphon breaks. My best guess is maybe boiling occurred in a section (perhaps some weird low pressure spot?) pushing the water out of the resevoir. It then either cooled off or got pushed out, leaving the difference in volume to drop the revoir to the point the siphon was broken. |
1 Attachment(s)
How I found the resevoir. Except I had added some water. Originally the level was right below that upper pipe. You can see discoloration where the water leaked out of those holes. It's 1" pex for context.
https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1598153933 |
1 Attachment(s)
What I did to hopefully fix it. Should more than double the amount of play in the water level height. Funny thing is that it will keep at a steady water level (usally a bit below the holes) for weeks at a time.
https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1598154467 |
Just an update on the project:
1.Cut down a bunch of trees as they were starting to block the collector going into fall. More solar heat & more firewood! 2. Integrated the hot water tank with the furnace plenum heat exchanger, so I've got solar space heating. I have various thermostats & controls to make it work, but basically it has it's own dedicated thermostat in the living space and a thermostat that turns on when the tank is above 130F or so. It really blows out a good amount of heat and nice warm air. I can provide more details if anyone's interested. 3. The reservoir overflow issue has happened once since my last modification and levels stayed barely above the pipes but I think I've narrowed it down. In all circumstances the tank either reached its max temp of over 150F or the system didn't have power. So almost certainly there was boiling in the collector due to stagnation pushing the fluid out of the reservoir until it cooled enough to condense leaving the reservoir sparse. I simply refilled the reservoir with the glycol I was going to swap the water out with anyways. So the boiling point of the fluid should be higher. Also, the space heating cutting in above 130F should keep the tank below the 155F max tank temp, so the system will keep running. Overall quite pleased so far. My electric bill is $20-25 less than last year's bills and I'm looking forward to seeing how much longer the firewood & propane lasts this winter :thumbup: |
Great to hear. I'd love to see how you integrated the solar hot water with your furnace.
|
Sure Daox.
Plumbing: I have a Taco style pump pulling water directly from the tank and circulating it through the furnace plenum. Kept it simple with 3/4" pex and shark bites to connect with the heat exchanger. It was conveniently left over from the outdoor woodboiler that was removed. Controls: The heart of it is the Taco Hydro Air Fan Control (HAFC201). Its powered off the 24v furnace common with a 120vac relay for the pump and controlled by 24v thermostats terminals. When the thermostat circuit is closed it turns the fan relay on the furnace & taco pump on. Really happy with the unit. I have 2 thermostats wired in series. One for the tank with a temperature probe and a simple thermostat in the living space. I mounted them both in the living room where I can keep an eye on the tank temp and set the living space temp easily. FyI If you need a bulb well for temperature probe, some 1/2 pex, brass plug and silicone work great! |
5 Attachment(s)
Picture of what I'm talking about.
https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...4&d=1602770527 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...5&d=1602770527 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...6&d=1602770527 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...7&d=1602770527 https://ecorenovator.org/forum/attac...8&d=1602770527 |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:50 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Ad Management by RedTyger