I got the new router setup finally. According to the kill-a-watt it pulls a solid 2W continuously. That is less than half of what the older d-link used. I know its not a lot (2kWh/mo), but since I needed a new one anyways, why not go for something more efficient. :) It was pretty cheap too!

I'll report back with how it works out. It is a single antenna router just like my older dlink. I plugged both in and walked around the house a bit with my smart phone and reception seems to be nearly identical.

If they are near each other, run the modem off the computer's power supply.
Most take 5V, and the 5V lead stays hot even while a PC is in standby

I use it to cut out the losses from the wall wart, and a quality PSU is about the best efficiency you can get.

That isn't a bad idea if you keep your computer on all the time. I don't keep my computer on 24/7. I only turn it on to use it. I do use wifi with my smart phone. I use republic wireless, and they make VOIP calls when you're connected to wifi to keep your bill down, awesome plan and highly suggest them ($20/mo unlimited everything). So I need wifi up 24/7.

Correct, BUT note I said that all PSU leave the 5V live, even when the PC is powered off but still plugged in - hence how it responds to the power button.

If you have a quality PSU, you can get the few watts needed and it will not be too awful power factor wise. Many PSUs can be erratic though as they were not meant to deliver any usable power in that state.
If you normally leave your PC in standby or hibernate when its 'off', you again can use the 5V line and its stable as that is what supplies the memory chips.

Won't work if you use laptop, hard switch the PSU or use a power strip.

It's easy to test if you have a spare plug around compatible to your router/modems power input


I tried running my alarm clock off it too - really just about anything will run off a PSU if you bypass the internal ac/dc converter - but it seems either the voltage drop on the long line along with the voltage changes were too much for the clock to handle; it expected a fixed voltage and wasn't happy with voltage spikes (relative) when the PC went from standby to on.

It did cut measurable power usage of the clock to nill.
I couldn't measure an increase from the PSU AC input; the voltmeter only said a couple watts of DC were going to it. The clock AC input measured avg 12 watts in, most of it lost to heat in ac/dc conversion.

I also charge my phone. If your phone is happy with 500mA then you can use the USB port. If it wants more, you wire a 12v car charger adapter to the 12v output of the PSU - better safe than sorry and have the built in adapter protection as you could wire your phone directly to the 5V PSU output.


I'm using a Seasonic 400 fanless gold with active PFC.

Netgear N150 Wireless Router JNR1010 is best for my side

How much power does that router use vpiya?

Also, welcome to the site. :)